ROANOKE TIMES

                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: SUNDAY, July 31, 1994                   TAG: 9408170043
SECTION: TRAVEL                    PAGE: F-8   EDITION: METRO 
SOURCE: By JEFF MILLER
DATELINE:                                 LENGTH: Long


IF YOU'RE PLANNING A TRIP TO DENVER, YOU MIGHT WANT TO GET OFF THE BEATEN PAT

HIKE nature trails through wildflower valleys. Fish deep blue waters of alpine lakes. View buffalo, elk and deer, big-horned sheep and rocky mountain goats. Drive up the highest paved road in America to stand atop one of the tallest mountains in the continental United States.

You can do all this in a day's circle drive through the little known Denver Mountain Parks System, founded in 1913.

The "Denver Mountain Parks Circle Drive" is approximately 150 miles long and includes such high profile and scenic locations as Lookout Mountain, with Buffalo Bill's grave and museum; Mount Evans and its nationally designated scenic byway; and Red Rocks Park, with its one-of-a- kind amphitheater. (Not on the drive but still in the system is Daniels Park, with it buffalo herd; and Winter Park, famous for its winter train and snow skiing.)

Also on the route are little-known scenic gems such as Stapleton and Dedisse parks, as well as mountain lakes and streams, pine forests, aspen groves and an abundance of wildlife.

"If visitors are lucky, they might even see traces of mountain lion or a bear," said Chuck Whigham, one of the park system's employees, adding with a smile, "although some might not think they're so lucky!"

Whigham has spent four years with the mountain parks as one of two seasonal workers. He helps a full-time staff of only eight in the herculean task of maintaining a system that contains 13,500 acres and sprawls over 200 miles.

Because the parks lack funds and manpower, driving the loop can be challenging - the route isn't marked, some roads have no signs, and a few sections are on dirt roads (safe for any car). Couple this with numerous scenic stops, and the drive can make for a long, but rewarding day.

Starting from Denver, go west on Colorado 6 to Lookout

Mountain Road (a.k.a. 19th Street, Lariat Trail Road, Colorado 68), where two stone pillars announce "Entrance to Denver Mountain Parks." Two other pillars marking the end of the drive used to stand outside Morrison, but were swept away in heavy flooding during the 1930s.

Beyond the entrance pillars, the cutbacks, sharp turns and steep inclines give travelers an inkling of the effort it took to build Lookout Mountain Road in 1913. It was the first major project of the infant mountain parks system.

In 1910 a local businessman proposed to the Denver Chamber of Commerce a series of mountain parks, linked by a network of roads, all within a day's drive of Denver. The concept was to make nature accessible to residents and visitors.

Backed by Mayor Robert Speer, the idea gained overwhelming support: Denver voters agreed to finance it, the state legislature allowed the purchase of land outside Denver county, Congress let the city buy 7,000 acres at $1.25 an acre, and Frederic Law Olmstead Jr. (son of the famous landscape architect) was hired to design the system.

Lookout Mountain Road was finished in time for the official opening of the initial parks on Aug. 27, 1913. Today, it winds upward through quiet stands of pines and aspens, offering better and better views of Golden, the foothills and distant plains. Atop the 7,375-foot peak is a sweeping overlook, Buffalo Bill's grave, a restaurant, gift shop and a museum (open every day through October, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.).

Just below the peak is Lookout Park, with a stone shelter, picnic tables and fireplaces. Running beside the park, the drive continues along Lookout Mountain Road to U.S. 40. Turn right, heading for Bergen Park and Evergreen, and in about a mile is an overpass junction with Interstate 70 (Exit 254, Genesee Park). There is a good panoramic view of the snow-coned Rocky Mountains, as well as the north pasture for the Genesee Park buffalo and elk herds.

Buffalo and elk were initially brought from Yellowstone Park in 1914 to establish a wildlife preserve. Today, 40 head of both are rotated between Genesee's north and south pastures, while 40 more buffalo reside in Daniels Park.

At the I-70 junction, the circle drive crosses the highway, follows the Genesee Park sign past the south pasture, and climbs up to major facilities (including a softball field and elaborate shelter) near the top of 8,274-foot Genesee Mountain. From the peak, a 360-degree view proves the parks name - Genesee is an Indian word for "shining valley."

The route then backtracks about a half mile before taking a sharp right onto a dirt road sign-posted, "Genesee Park Picnic Area." Wandering through more of the park, the road suddenly forks with no signs in sight -take either fork, they both lead to Chief Hosa Lodge and campground.

The campground is the only such facility in the mountain parks, while the picturesque stone lodge, built in 1919, was named for an Arapahoe chief. Both the lodge (now used for special events) and campground are operated by a concessionaire, and are located at an overpass junction with I-70 (Chief Hosa, Exit 253).

From the lodge, the route goes over I-70 to a dirt road T- junction. Turning right, it becomes Stapleton Drive and leads through Stapleton Park. Picnic facilities are scattered along the route, which loops through the park and gives startling views of deep valleys and craggy mountain peaks.

Stapleton Park also has two hiking trails. The Nature Trail was started by the Boy Scouts in the 1950s. A waist-high guide wire runs in a 1.5-mile loop and leads to interpretative signs written in English and Braille. The Chavez Trail, named for long-time mountain parks employee Robert

Chavez, is a 1.5-mile hike to Beaver Brook.

Following Stapleton Drive back to I-70 the route heads west to the next exit (Exit 252, Colorado 74/68), and on to the town of Bergen Park. Just before the town, on the left side of the road, Fillius Park has a shelter house, fireplaces and picnic tables. In town, at the major fork in the road, is a large open space (called Bergen Park) with similar facilities.

Taking the right fork, the drive follows Colorado 68/Colorado 103

across alpine valleys and evergreen-covered slopes to Echo Lake and Mount Evans - two of the system's most spectacular properties. The deep mountain lake, surrounded by the scent and serenity of towering pines, held great spiritual significance to the Arapahoe Indians - legends say the mists of Echo Lake are the beginnings of the Milky Way. Today, visitors can picnic along the shores, fish the dark-blue waters, hike various alpine trails or eat at Echo Lake Lodge, which opened in 1926.

Others will want to continue on by taking Colorado 5 up to Summit

Lake Park and the top of Mount Evans, 14,260 feet above sea level. Now a nationally designed scenic byway, Colorado 5 is the highest paved automobile road in the nation, and is traditionally open only from Memorial Day to Labor Day.

The view from the top is simply spectacular - lesser peaks crowd around like excited children waiting for candy. The sky envelopes everything in a surreal bright blue. The air is crisp and invigorating. Here is where clouds must be made.

From this magnificent peak, the circle drive backtracks to the Bergen Park fork and takes a right onto Colorado 74. Just before Evergreen, on the right side, is Dedisse Park, which offers an unusual combination: secluded picnic areas nest in a pine forest overlooking Evergreen Lake, while down below is a popular 18-hole golf course - all are part of Denver Mountain Parks.

Back on Colorado 74, the drive continues through Evergreen on its downhill run through Bear Creek Canyon to Morrison. Along the way are three parks, all with picnic facilities: O'Fallon Park (with a marked hiking trail), Corwina Park, and Little Park (at the end of Miller Lane in Idledale).

In these parks, as in many of the other mountain parks, are reservation sites used for such events as weddings, company picnics and family reunions. Depending on the site, they cost $25 to $250 a day (call 303-964-2522).

The final stop of the circle drive is Red Rocks Park, just before Morrison. One of the state's most geologically beautiful areas, Red Rocks was aptly named - giant burnt-orange sandstone plates thrust up at various angles from the grassy foothills.

In the 1930s, Roosevelt's Civilian Conservation Corps constructed Red Rocks amphitheater, which now hosts a variety of musical concerts under the open sky. Also in the park are geological formations with interpretative signs, a scenic overlook, and the Red Rocks Trading Post, coffee shop and cactus garden.

From Red Rocks, numerous options lead back to Denver. The park road goes to Colorado 26 or I-70, both of which return to the city. Or drivers can backtrack to Colorado 74, pass through Morrison to Interstate-470 east and Colorado 285 back to Denver.

For further information contact: Denver Mountain Parks, (303) 697-4545.



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