Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, August 7, 1994 TAG: 9408090047
SECTION: HOMES PAGE: B1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: JOHN K. ARBOGAST
DATELINE: LENGTH: Long
M. B. S., Roanoke
A: No, this should not be a dangerous situation, since it is unlikely that termites will be attracted to mulch and thereby drawn to the house. Dr. William H. Robinson, Entomologist at Virginia Tech, told me that he wasn't aware of any research data on this, though, but that termites just don't like mulch.
Q: How can I grow new rose bushes from an existing plant?
D. W., Moneta
A: Root six inch long rose cuttings taken from flowering shoots after petals have fallen. Remove most of the leaves from each cutting, treat the basal end of the cutting with a root stimulating hormone (like Rootone), and then stick the cuttings about two inches deep into dampened rooting mixture in a pot near a bright window (no direct sun) or outdoors in moistened loose soil in a shady landscape bed. Place a jar over the cuttings in either method to maintain humidity until they root.
Q: For the past five years we have had a yearly problem with fungi in the turf, particularly red thread disease. I have already treated the yard four times this year. We do have a lawn service. Soil test results taken by the lawn service showed no problem. Why has this problem just developed in the past five years, since the yard and house are older? Also, are there any preventative measures we can take to prevent the turf disease fungus from starting?
T. L. S., Christiansburg
A: Has this problem been accurately diagnosed? The turf disease known as red thread is known to occur on slow growing turf, whether the slow growth is caused by cold temperatures or lack of nitrogen. Since you mentioned having a lawn service, I'm assuming that your turf is not suffering from a lack of nutrients. Contact your local Montgomery County Extension Office at 382-5729 to arrange for a turf sample diagnosis. Red thread disease could be explained by the aging of your lawn, which could have resulted in slower turf growth. Preventative measures would include: overseed with newer vigorous turf varieties; maintain adequate and balanced fertility; water infrequently but deeply and early in the day to avoid long periods of leaf wetness; and increase the air flow across the turf through removal of barriers such as solid fences if possible.
Q: Why did I get only a few blooms and some buds that turned brown and never developed for the last two springs on peonies that I dug up and divided three years ago? You recommended using Orthene or diazinon for lacebugs on azaleas. Since I spray my roses regularly with Orthenex, which contains Orthene and Funginex, would it be okay to use the same on my azaleas monthly during the summer as a preventative measure? Should I use it on azaleas that were just planted this spring? Also, the new grass we planted this spring is full of weeds. Can we use the fertilizer/weed control combination on this new grass and how often?
M. W., Roanoke
A: Possible explanations are: peony root pieces were divided with fewer than three to five healthy buds on each; and/or the peony roots were replanted with the buds covered by more than one and a half inches of soil.
As for the azaleas, to be legal pesticides should only be applied to plants mentioned on the product label. The 1994 specimen label for Orthenex Insect & Disease Control Formula III that I've seen states that the product can be used on the broad category of plants called "ornamentals". Thus, it would be permissible to use that on your azaleas, both older ones as well as those planted this year. However, regularly check the undersides of your azalea leaves and spray when lacebugs are present rather than spraying anyway as a preventative.
Most weed killers are not to be applied to tender new grass until the new grass plants have grown past that the tender stage, usually expressed as after a certain number of mowings. Don't apply either fertilizer or weed controls now at this time of year. If your grass is bluegrass or fescue, as are most lawns around here, the fall months of September, October, and November are the recommended times for fertilizing. Weed control is applied where needed one or two times each in mid fall and/or mid spring. Liquid weed control applications are designed to adhere to weed foliage and are thus usually better than dry granular weed killers that might drop to the soil surface rather than sticking to the weeds.
Q: I pruned an upper branch that had withered on a rhododendron and noticed that the branch was dying along its entire length and that there were several small holes that had been bored into the woody fiber. I found insect larvae that had tunneled into the branch. What are these insects and how do I eradicate them?
S. B., Lexington
A: The presence of "several small holes" reminds me of typical work of the rhododendron borer. However, without additional information, I must mention that another suspect would be the azalea stem borer, a borer that enters into the tips of stems and bores out some of the twigs soon after blooming. Other home rhododendron growers have experienced your situation, so I wish I could answer your questions. However, more information would be needed for diagnosis; also, since this column is not set up to receive samples, cut out any additional damaged stems you have now and take any culprits you might find to your local Extension Office for diagnosis or to be sent to Virginia Tech.
HORTICULTURE SEMINARS
The Horticulture Department at Virginia Western Community College here in Roanoke is offering to the public these seminars which will meet once a week for eight weeks this fall:
FIRST SESSION - Vineyard & Vintage II; Gardening and Herbs II; Landscaping Your Home; Water Gardening II; Professional Tree Care; and Trees, Shrubs, & Perennials;
SECOND SESSION - Small Fruit Production; Lawn Care; Landscaping Your Home; Small Engine Repair; and Seeds, Cuttings, & Grafting.
For more information, contact the VWCC Horticulture Department at 857-7120. Register at the VWCC Admissions Office. Tuition for each seminar is $45.30.
Send short questions about your lawn, garden, plants, or insects to
\ Dear John, c/o the Roanoke Times & World-News, P. O. Box 2491, Roanoke, Virginia 24010-2491. We need your mail, but this column can't reply to all letters. Those of wide appeal will be answered each week. Personal replies cannot be given. Please don't send stamps, stamped envelopes, samples, or pictures.
by CNB