ROANOKE TIMES

                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: SUNDAY, October 23, 1994                   TAG: 9411160022
SECTION: HOMES                    PAGE: C1   EDITION: METRO 
SOURCE: JOHN ARBOGAST
DATELINE:                                 LENGTH: Long


HELP IN SELECTING SEEDLINGS

When one thinks of planting "tree seedlings," a picture of open fields or forested areas might come to mind

However, urban and suburban lot owners, as well as owners of big land, can beautify their environment, provide wildlife cover, make living screens or slow down the wind and plan for the future by planting tree seedlings.

The Virginia Department of Forestry has released its 1994-95 tree seedling catalog, "Virginia Trees for Virginia's Landowners," which includes more than 45 species of seedlings that have been grown at one of the three State Forestry centers. Consumers thus can be sure that the seedlings are suited for Virginia soils and climate.

In addition to the wide selection of seedlings, the department offers seven specialty packs, such as the "Fall Color Seedling Pack," and six seed mixtures suitable for various wildlife habitats, screening, use in wetland areas and for erosion control.

To obtain a copy of this seedling catalog, call or write your local Department of Forestry office, listed as Virginia Commonwealth of Forestry Department in the telephone book. In Roanoke, call (703) 387-5461 or write P.O. Box 100, Salem 24153. Local libraries also have catalog displays.

Q: I have two pin oaks that I purchased from a nursery two years ago. The trees are about 14 feet tall. At the top, I have noticed that some of the leaves have been eaten. Do I need to spray the trees? S.W., Blacksburg

A: No, you don't need to spray your young oaks for these two reasons: In general, leaf loss of deciduous plants late in the growing season after the plant foliage has been full and productive for most of the growing season should not be detrimental; and the old saying "know thy enemy" is very important before spraying anything. Maybe the culprit has gone by now and there's nothing to spray anyway; correct identification tells us how long the pest is usually there, what controls are effective, and the best and worst times to control this according to its normal pest life cycle.

Q: (1) Why are the leaves falling so heavily from my magnolia tree? (letter dated June 7) Every April I notice the tree turns a yellowish color, but I have never noticed such a leaf loss. The blooms are still beautiful. Is the leaf loss normal? What should I do? (2) I had one sickly bloom on my normally healthy peony this year. The bush appeared full of early buds, but they never matured. What went wrong? G.C., Roanoke

A: (1) I'm assuming that you mean the Southern magnolia, the big leaf evergreen with large, shiny leaves. This is a messy tree, losing leaves all year long.

However, since there aren't diseases or pests that routinely infest the Southern magnolia, plus the fact that you mentioned beautiful blooms, I would tell you not to worry. The winter of '94 is probably to blame for the big leaf loss.

Do take a soil test from around that tree soon to see if there is a pH or nutrient problem that could explain the yellow leaf color.

(2) The failure of all those peony flower buds to open could have been caused by: crowded peony clump, too much shade, competition from adjacent

plant roots, or lack of nutrients (fertilization)

Q: When is the best time to move azalea bushes? E.L., Huddleston

A: Dig and replant when the plants are dormant but the soil has a mild temperature, either in mid-fall or late winter/early spring.

Q: Is there anything that will kill chickweed at all? I have been told that I might need professional help to get rid of it. If the professional can get something to kill it, why can't I? F.H., Clifton Forge

A: Yes, chickweed can be controlled by consumers, but there are two kinds of chickweed. Selecting the effective chemical control must be based on the type of chickweed, because the two plants have a different susceptibility to different weedkillers.

The preferred time of year to treat the lawn for either chickweed is right now or in early November. Common chickweed is called a "winter annual" plant, because it starts growing in the fall from seed but then makes new seeds and dies in the spring.

Mouse-ear chickweed, which has smaller leaves but is a little more hairy than the common kind, also will be starting growth now but is a perennial like dandelions. This means that even though it declines in the spring, its roots live from year to live. Consumers can buy weedkillers for the lawn that contain the ingredient Dicamba, which can move in the soil but is effective against either type of chickweed. Look at weedkiller labels to find this ingredient.

It might be easier for lawn service professionals to eradicate chickweed, because their arsenal of chemicals may contain some different chemicals or chemical combinations than consumers can buy. This is because some chemicals require licensing and training to obtain. Also, the availability of certain products in large containers might be a factor.

Send short questions about your lawn, garden, plants or insects to Dear John, c/o the Roanoke Times & World-News, P.O. Box 2491, Roanoke, 24010-2491. We need your mail, but this column can't reply to all letters. Those of wide appeal will be answered each week. Personal replies cannot be given. Please don't send stamps, stamped envelopes, samples or pictures.



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