Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: FRIDAY, November 25, 1994 TAG: 9411250007
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: 1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: DOLORES KOSTELNI SPECIAL TO THE ROANOKE TIMES & WORLD-NEWS
DATELINE: LENGTH: Medium
This is just how I felt as I walked into the neat, modestly appointed dining room of The River Inn, located on old U.S. 11 south in Buchanan. Indeed, a real chef does work here. This is Eugene Fesquet's new restaurant. He is the same person who was chef-owner of the popular self-named restaurant at Crossroads Mall several years ago.
At The River Inn, the food exhibits classic French technique and flair, yet it is uncomplicated, quickly assembled and tasty. Fesquet prepares each dish to order in his small, efficient kitchen.
The regular menu lists four starters ($2 to $3.95) and 12 entrees ($6.95 to $15.50), with a separate sheet outlining the three daily specials ($4 to $10.50). Although the menu is brief and restrained, the offerings include something for everyone: escargot, soups, beef, veal, chicken, seafood, fish and surprisingly, even two well-constructed vegetarian dishes.
I like the way the plates look: nothing contrived, just nicely arranged with the entree flanked by seasoned red cabbage, steamed zucchini, potato croquette sticks, and a broiled tomato half. Best of all, these satisfactory, balanced meals are filling and reasonably priced. It is quite possible to enjoy a delicious dinner with a glass of house wine ($3), followed by dessert, and not pay more than $15.
The food is first-rate, so I'll get my complaint out of the way at the start. A Caesar salad for two ($6) prepared tableside, brings together all its familiar ingredients in generous portions. Our salad bowl contained too many tough, outer romaine lettuce leaves in comparison to the lighter, tender inner ones. A Caesar salad's assertive dressing requires an aggressive hand so that it is thoroughly combined. Unfortunately, our dressing was timidly mixed because I was able to taste each of the dressing ingredients separately on the lettuce.
Amazingly delicious, shrimp sauteed in lobster sauce ($3.95) combines about 14 medium crustaceans happily crowded in a perfectly seasoned rosy sauce. I found this appetizer so appealing, I ate it with both a fork and a spoon, so I wouldn't miss any morsels.
Salmon broiled with lemon-dill sauce ($11.50) exemplifies the perfectly cooked, uncluttered offerings of a chef who understands food. Moist, delicious and fresh, this dish totally satisfies.
The meats are cooked in the French manner using a saute pan so they taste like what they are without the smoky influences from a wood-burning or charcoal grill. Filet mignon with bearnaise sauce ($13.50) arrived at exactly my ordered degree of medium doneness. The uniformly pink, tender interior delivered excellent flavor. As I dipped each mouthful into the velvety bearnaise, I realized it had been a long time since I had savored this luscious classic. Although naturally chewier than filet, top sirloin steak with mild peppercorn sauce ($9.95) yields tremendous flavor, and for me, great dining pleasure.
Without hesitation, I ordered the dessert of the evening, cheesecake with blueberries flambe ($5), prepared tableside. It didn't let me down and was well worth the calories. I adored its soft sweetness and vibrant flavors. Although it's something I prefer for breakfast, on another evening I ordered the French rice pudding ($2.95), simply because it's the only other dessert prepared at the restaurant. It's a soothing, creamy delight enhanced with flecks of fresh lemon rind.
Eugene Fesquet and his partner, Lou Wright, took what was once a convenience store and transformed it into their restaurant. The place is comfortable, clean and inviting. You don't have to dress up to come here nor do you have to win the lottery to enjoy the delicious food. Fesquet's reputation as a chef with a commitment to perfection and first-quality ingredients is well-known. As a result, The River Inn has a definite professional and personal style. I will find it easy to return here.
THE RIVER INN
U.S. 11 and 2nd Street
Buchanan
254 -2735
I-81 south: exit 167
I-81 north: exit 162
Open: for dinner only Wednesday through Saturday 5 to 10 p.m.
Beverages served: wine, beer, soft drinks
Price range: $6.95 - $15.95
Credit cards accepted: Visa, MasterCard
Reservations required? Preferred on weekends
No-smoking section? Yes
by CNB