ROANOKE TIMES

                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: SUNDAY, January 15, 1995                   TAG: 9501160092
SECTION: BOOK                    PAGE: F-5   EDITION: METRO 
SOURCE: REVIEWED BY HARRIET LITTLE
DATELINE:                                 LENGTH: Medium


SOUTHERN PARTY FOOD: SIMPLE, ELEGANT

SOUTHERN HOSPITALITY COOKBOOK: Menus and Recipes For Entertaining Simply and Graciously. By Sara Pitzer. August House. $11.95 (trade paper).

Sara Pitzer understands many of the key concepts of "Southern Hospitality" and recounts them here in a fine new cookbook.

In spite of times or difficulties, Pitzer writes, the traditional hospitality of the South lies in "this passion for a party." She goes on, "Elaborate food is not necessary. Good food is; and these days that means simple food." Thus, a "party" is always a possibility no matter what the occasion.

Pitzer has created menus for occasions ranging from "An Elegant Dinner" with Salmon Pate and Braised Quail on Rice, and "Dinner For New Year's Day" with Crabmeat Mold and Chicken with Black-eyed Peas to "Supper at the Beach House" starring Clam Stew and Southern Banana Cake.

All of the recipes include easy-to-find ingredients as well as information on preparation ahead of time. The recipes, too, are uniformly easy to follow. I must include one small criticism, though. Pitzer's wonderful Low-Country Chicken and Shrimp Bog (which I served to appreciative friends recently) includes no mention of the oil or butter needed for the initial browning of the chicken pieces. A cook with even limited experience will, of course, rectify the omission easily.

Another personal favorite is the simple and delicious marinade for Pitzer's Grilled Chicken. Also Gold Medallion Carrots and Sauteed Spinach are standouts.

Pitzer's is an innovative and excellent book which should extend the boundaries of "Southern Hospitality."

Harriet Little teaches at James River High School.



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