Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, January 29, 1995 TAG: 9501310109
SECTION: HOMES PAGE: E1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: JOHN ARBOGAST
DATELINE: LENGTH: Medium
In many cases, that is the wrong approach, especially now that we are concerned about runoff of nutrients and pollution of our ground water and streams. So, with the growing season weeks away, let's look briefly at fertilizers and what they do.
First, it should be understood that plants produce their own food in the leaves. Remember, though, that plant nutrients applied as ``fertilizers'' are essential to plant growth. However, an insufficient number of leaves can cause a plant to starve to death, such as when a shade tree is severely topped or ``hat-racked'' - because the tree cannot make enough leaves to produce enough food to keep itself alive.
Some other fertilizer facts are: Apply fertilizers at the time that the plants to be helped actually are growing or starting growth. For example, don't fertilize the soil for a flower or vegetable garden now; do that when planting this spring.
Also, don't fertilize a dormant lawn now; that should be done for bluegrasses and fescues in the fall when the turf roots are growing. Don't apply fertilizer around sick landscape plants without knowing the cause. For example, it is true that shade trees weakened by nearby construction might be helped by a spring fertilization, whereas trees suffering from drought won't be helped. Most trees and shrubs that have been growing and flowering or fruiting adequately for their type do not need to be fertilized. Apple trees that made several inches of new growth last spring, for instance, likely will not need fertilizing this spring; average azaleas don't need fertilizing every year.
If soil-test results show a high level of any particular nutrient, don't expect to see results by adding a lot more of that same nutrient. The amount of organic matter in the vegetable or flower garden soil has a major affect on the amount of nutrients needed. Organic matter can be mixed in now or as soon as the soil is workable but fertilizers should not be added until planting to prevent leaching of nutrients.
Q: I gave a friend 20 or more peach seedlings that came up so he could start an orchard. He will need to know a few things about selecting the best location and how far apart should the rows be. R.D.R., Martinsville
A: Criteria for site selection for a fruit planting should include: avoidance of frost pockets which could endanger spring fruit buds, because cold air flows downhill; no low or wet spots; not a spot exposed to strong prevailing winds; plus a deep, well-drained soil of good fertility.
A good minimum distance between peach trees is 20 feet in a given row. If your friend plants in several rows rather than one long row of trees, the distance between adjacent rows should be a little further to allow for moving of machines, such as tractors, which will be used for mowing and spraying after the peach trees are mature size.
Q: This past spring, one of the 12 dwarf Alberta spruces that I have (approximately 10 years old) grew a branch unlike the regular dwarf appearance but more like other standard spruces. Is this something that happens occasionally or do I have an oddity? The regular-looking branch is about two-thirds up the tree. J.R.H., Pearisburg
A: You do not have an oddity. The evergreen often called dwarf Alberta spruce is a cultivated variety of white spruce. It has been known to revert to that standard species on occasion. All you need to do is prune off the branch that has reverted and the rest of the spruce will be dwarf.
Send short questions about your lawn, garden, plants, or insects to Dear John, c/o the Roanoke Times & World-News, P.O. Box 2491, Roanoke 24010-2491. We need your mail, but this column can't reply to all letters. Those of wide appeal will be answered each week. Personal replies cannot be given. Please don't send stamps, stamped envelopes, samples or pictures.
by CNB