Roanoke Times Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc. DATE: TUESDAY, February 21, 1995 TAG: 9502230009 SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: 6 EDITION: METRO SOURCE: DAVID BUTLER DATELINE: LENGTH: Medium
A: Whether you're adding a telephone jack or installing a house-wide audio system, getting the necessary wiring from point A to point B often turns out to be the most difficult part of the project. Sometimes you feel as if you've just been told, "You can't get there from here!"
The design of your home usually dictates the path for add-on wiring. For example, if your home is built on a slab, a new cable TV or telephone outlet may require a detour through the attic. Alternatively, you could route the cable along the outside perimeter of the foundation. Sometimes the siding overhang forms a pocket just big enough to conceal the cable.
Two-story homes can also be a challenge. Access to upstairs walls must be gained from the attic and access to downstairs walls from a basement or crawl space. If you're tackling a big job, you may want to install a wiring conduit between the attic and basement. A small PVC pipe (two inches or less) works well. Your house must have a suitable path - for example, through the back of juxtaposed closets.
Wiring projects that seem impossible may not be so hard once you learn a few tricks of the trade. Professional wiring contractors have developed a variety of time-saving installation tools and techniques. But first, some basic wiring terminology:
Coaxial cable: used to distribute cable television, antenna signals and other video signals; coax has a solid center conductor surrounded by a thick foam insulator and braided outer shield; RG-6 and RG-59 are the most common sizes; coax is also used by computer networks
Gauge: a common measurement of wire thickness; the higher the gauge, the thinner the wire
Romex: heavy insulated wires encased in a tough outer sheath; used for household electrical wiring (``line" voltage); Romex usually contains three solid conductors, 14 gauge or heavier
Multiconductor cable (twisted pair): lightweight wire used for telephones, intercoms, multi-room audio, doorbells, security sensors, thermostats, computer networks and home automation sensors and peripherals; often twisted into pairs; stranded or solid, typically 20 gauge or lighter; braided or foil shield minimizes electrical noise when used to support high-fidelity audio or analog sensors
Zip cord (lamp cord): general-purpose two-conductor insulated wire; often used to hook up remote speakers; conductors are usually 16 or 18 gauge, stranded
One of the most useful tools for retrofit wiring is an extra-long drill bit (up to six feet in length plus extensions). It can penetrate a wall cavity from the basement or attic. It's also great for routing wire horizontally inside an enclosed wall. A small steering guide makes it easy to maneuver the flexible shaft through the wall. Once the bit reaches its destination, you can tie your wire to a small hole in the tip and pull it back through the wall.
For the ultimate in flexibility for today's and tomorrow's wiring projects, you may want to consider a surface raceway system. Snap-together pieces attach to the wall, baseboard or ceiling, providing a concealed path for the new wiring. To access the wire, simply pry off the cover. Low-profile junction boxes make it easy to add or move an outlet, switch or light fixture.
Nonmetallic raceways come in a variety of finishes (eggshell white, wood-grain) and styles (crown molding, baseboard, under-carpet). Multichannel baseboard raceways can handle both low voltage and line voltage wiring. One company offers a vertical inside corner raceway that virtually disappears once it's painted.
To receive my Home Systems Wiring Resource List, please send $1.50 and a self-addressed envelope to David Butler F-450, Department TWN, 14713 Pleasant Hill Road, Charlotte, N.C. 28278-7927. It includes manufacturers of low voltage wiring products, installation tools and raceway systems as well as helpful wiring tips and a list of books and other references.
by CNB