Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: WEDNESDAY, February 22, 1995 TAG: 9502230038
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: 3 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: BETH CRITTENDEN
DATELINE: LENGTH: Medium
Merlot (pronounced mare-LOW) is gaining popularity with red-wine lovers as well as with those who are new to reds.
Softer and naturally less tannic than cabernet sauvignon, merlot makes a better food match with lighter dishes.
The merlot grape can be found in France, as a major component of red Bordeaux wine, and is widely grown as a vin de pays in Southern France. California and Washington state are well-known for merlot in the U.S., and several Virginia vintners grow and bottle their own. Bulgaria, Northeast Italy, Spain and Portugal are other producers of merlot.
Unblended merlots offer a soft, earthy, fruity taste with a dark, rich purple color and straightforward aromas. Other flavors and tastes are chocolate, black pepper or spiciness and plum jam. The characteristic soft tannins make for a wine that often needs little or no aging. The exceptions are the great wines of Bordeaux's Pomerol and St. Emilion appellations, made primarily from merlot, which mature into wonderfully complex wines.
Although Bordeaux usually is associated with cabernet sauvignon, there actually is much more merlot grown in the region. Chateau Petrus, one of the best-known and well-respected producers in Pomerol, crafts wines from almost 100 percent merlot. The most recently released vintages of Petrus (1989 and 1990) are priced around $450 to $500 a bottle. But merlot (as all wine) does not have to be expensive to be good. Good value, well-balanced merlots can be found locally for as little as $6 to $8 per bottle.
I like to match merlots to grilled meats, dark fish or burgers to echo the smoky or earthy characteristics of the wine. Lasagna, chili and stews also make for a nice match-up, or try a spicy merlot with my favorite: Minestrone Soup. I don't know which I like best - the flavor combination or the alliteration - but it makes for a great winter meal, served with crusty French bread, crisp apple wedges and sharp Cheddar cheese.
Using a little wine to thin the soup in the following recipe is my own touch, and it adds richness to the dish and a nice flavor bridge to your wine.
Cheers!
Recipe for:
MINESTRONE CASALINGA
THE WINE LIST runs once a month in the Extra section. Beth Crittenden is director of the Roanoke Valley Wine Society, which meets for wine-tasting programs the fourth Thursday of each month. Call 992-3285. Crittenden also is a Virginia wine wholesaler and because of this affiliation will not make specific brand-name recommendations.
by CNB