Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, April 2, 1995 TAG: 9504200003
SECTION: TRAVEL PAGE: G8 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: ELIZABETH WOOSTER|
DATELINE: LENGTH: Long
Thanks to the many devaluations of the mexican peso (as of last week there were 7.05 pesos to the dollar) it is more affordable than ever to travel to Mexico. Travel agents are offering great package deals that often include airfare, a seven-night hotel stay, transfers and sometimes meals for as little as $896/person. Because of the instability of the peso however, it is always a good idea to buy currency before you go.
Your adventure begins as soon as you land at the Mexico City International Airport (perhaps sooner if you're flying a Mexican airline). The airport has been in a state of more or less constant remodeling for about 20 years, so where you come out in relation to your luggage is always a surprise. Once you and your bags are reunited you will immediately be surrounded by a contingent of smiling porters vying for the pleasure of carrying your luggage. If your Spanish is a little weak this can seem a bit overwhelming, but it is important to remember that for the remainder of your stay that this will happen often. You aren't obligated to accept help, but whenever a service is performed a tip is customary.
Taking a cab in Mexico City is inexpensive and a great alternative to braving the traffic in a rented car. Also, many U.S. insurance companies will not cover a driver south of the border. Cabs come in all shapes and sizes ranging from minibuses called peseros which operate on a fixed route for a flat fee, somewhat like a bus, to the more traditional taxis which come in several colors. While the pesero is less expensive (20 - 35 cents depending on how far you go), they usually only travel up and down the main boulevards. A taxi will take you exactly where you want to go and doesn't cost much more if you negotiate the fare with the driver before you get in.
For day trips outside the city it is often most economical to hire a guide. They can always be found parked outside the major hotels and once you negotiate a price (always in advance) they can add a wonderful perspective to the sights you're seeing. Most of them are fluent in English and can recommend wonderful restaurants and attractions off the beaten path.
A good place to start your visit is the National Museum of Anthropology which traces the course of Aztec and Mexican culture.
The collection of artifacts from the Aztec, Toltec, Maya and other cultures is so extensive that it will take at least a half day to see it all. You can get an English guide book in the museum shop and explore on your own, or if you are pressed for time they offer bilingual tours that touch on the highlights in about two hours. The pottery, jewelry, weapons and brilliantly feathered headdresses of the Aztecs will give you a good feel for the thriving and complex society that existed here up until the end of the eighth century.
After your tour of the museum you will find that you're near the Castillo de Chapultepec. This palace dates back to the Aztecs and was the site of their historic but futile stand against the Spaniards. It was later refurbished and occupied by Maxmillian and Carlotta while he served as Emperor of Mexico. After his death during the Mexican Revolution in the mid 1800s it was used as the presidential palace until 1940 when it was turned into a museum.
After a full day you will be ready to sample some of the authentic regional cuisine. Forget everything you've ever associated with Mexican food because the things you will taste on this trip will exceed your wildest fantasies. A good choice on your first night out is the Fonda Del Recuerdo. This restaurant serves food from the Veracruz region and seafood is a specialty. Order a mixed grill for two or more and a sizzling mound of shrimp, lobster and treats will arrive on a charcoal brazier. Wash this down with a torito (a little bull), a delicious blend of rum and fresh fruit juices and enjoy the strolling mariachis. However, don't let the refreshing taste of your torito fool you - even for a seasoned veteran the limit is usually two. The third one has a way of sneaking up on you and knocking you down, hence the name.
Just a short ride from the city are the floating gardens of Xochimilco (so-chee-milk-o). The ancient Aztecs suffered a shortage of fertile cropland and so developed a system of Chinampas - flat barges covered with mud and willows whose roots served as anchors to the bottom of the lake. On these they grew most of the produce that fed the Aztecs. Xochimilco is the only one that has survived and you can travel the canals on a flat boat called a trajinera covered with a canopy of fresh flowers. Women in small boats float by offering food and cold drinks. Tempting as it may look, the food is often prepared using lake water, illustrating the expression "Montezuma's revenge".
Mexico City is home to the world-famous Ballet Folkorico de Mexico. This group has toured extensively through the United States performing Mexican regional folk dances. This is a wonderful way to experience the customs and dress of the entire country. The colorful costumes are a feast for the eyes, as is the Palacio de Bellas Artes where they perform. If you see a matinee be sure to explore the rest of the palace. It houses murals by Diego Rivera as well as Orozco and Siqueiros. The Tiffany stained-glass curtain depicts the two volcanoes, Popocatepetl and Ixtaccihuatl, that guard the city.
For a late night adventure take a cab to the Plaza Garibaldi. This beautiful Plaza is surrounded by cantinas and outdoor restaurants where the city's mariachi bands go to unwind after work. The music starts around 10 p.m. and goes on into the early hours. No matter where you stop you will be serenaded by a variety of bands, and remember that if they stop and play at your table you are expected to tip them. The atmosphere is raucous and you would do well to keep a sharp eye on your purse here, but don't let that deter you from experiencing the least known tourist attraction in the city.
Another great place that is not generally advertised for tourists is the Lagunilla Market, locally known as the Thieve's Market because it is generally believed that if something is stolen then it will appear there for sale. This will give you some real insight into the Mexican recycling effort. Used paper, nails and cloth are sold alongside antiques and crafts. This market is a haven for pickpockets so leave your valuables at your hotel.
The last night of your stay should be special, so have a romantic dinner at the San Angel Inn. Located in an old convent, the atmosphere is elegant and peaceful. It is somewhat expensive but well worth it. The food is wonderful and impeccably served. The tortilla soup is a specialty of the house.
With a little care and a sense of adventure your trip can be an affordable dream vacation. Just remember, don't drink the water.
Elizabeth Wooster is a free-lance writer who lives in Roanoke.
by CNB