Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SATURDAY, April 8, 1995 TAG: 9504110082
SECTION: CURRENT PAGE: NRV3 EDITION: NEW RIVER VALLEY
SOURCE: JOANNE ANDERSON STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: NEWBERN LENGTH: Medium
History, antiques, gifts and lots of Southern cookin' mingle at the Wilderness Inn in Newbern. The former stagecoach inn and tavern, circa 1830, was reopened last June by two former high school teachers who abandoned the classroom for the kitchen.
Karen Hines, 40, and Bill Ryplansky, 47, had been teaching about 18 years when the historic Newbern landmark went on the market.
``Karen has always been interested in this building,'' said Bill. ``We were ready for a change when the opportunity struck.''
Hines organized an antique and gift shop in a room right inside the front door. Linens, old paintings and photos, an Elvis album or two, dishes and various collectibles rest on old shelves and tables. There are dried wreaths made by Hines, who also has dealer space at Snoopers Mall.
The most popular order, the family-style country meal, consists of oven-fried chicken and country ham or roast beef, five side dishes, freshly baked biscuits and a homemade country dessert, like carrot cake or cherry cobbler.
Family-style specials of prime rib or catfish fillet come with the same complements. Smaller dinners are the side dish plate which includes one serving of each side dish and no meat (but it can be added); and the biscuit plate with two biscuits, one side dish and cole slaw.
The side dishes are Southern - tomato pudding, cole slaw, mashed potatoes with thick country-style gravy, macaroni and cheese, and green beans with bits of country ham.
The rustic interior has an open camp-style feeling, reminiscent of Chatauqua dining halls or an upscale version of summer camp buildings. The wood-pegged floors and pine walls and ceilings exude the natural warmth of wood. Pierced tin lamps lend an old-time, sparkling light.
Hines and Ryplansky do whatever needs doing, from answering the telephone, placing orders, receiving food, greeting people and cashiering to baking desserts, making cole slaw, handling the accounting and clearing tables.
When asked what surprised Hines the most about the restaurant business, she said, ``The fact that it takes money to make money. When you teach school, you just collect a check. Here, you have to spend money, quite a bit of money, to get money back in.''
It's lots of work, Hines and Ryplansky agree, but there are no regrets. ``We jumped in with no restaurant experience,'' Bill said. ``It was kind of exciting, being a rookie all over again. It's been a brand new challenge.''
by CNB