Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, April 9, 1995 TAG: 9504180008
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: 1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: STACY JONES STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: LENGTH: Medium
"Suddenly men became free, like women, to pull items from all parts of their wardrobe to put together outfits of their own creation, whether it's dressy, casual or active," says Jack Herschlag, executive director of the National Association of Men's Sportswear Buyers.
"We're still selling the dressy, serious power suits," says Larry Davidson, president of Davidsons in Roanoke. "But in addition to that, men now seem to need more variety."
And the term casual definitely does not mean scruffy or sloppy, so save the school sweatshirts and frayed jeans for garden work.
In fact, says Herschlag, one positive effect dressing down has had is to make men clean up their acts.
When companies first relaxed their shirt-and-tie rules, many men showed up for work wearing the only other clothes they possessed - beat-up jeans and T-shirts. "But after awhile, men didn't like to see themselves that way, especially if they were meeting with important clients or heading for a social gathering right after work," Herschlag says.
"The focus shifted to a combination of comfort, practicality and, surprisingly, fashion," he says.
"The whole idea is smart casual,'' added Terry Hauck of Norfolk-Southern. ``You can't come in with sandals and cutoffs."
In the accounting department where he works "Friday dressing" most often means a nice pair of chinos and a polo shirt. "It's a little more comfortable," says Hauck. "But it doesn't really affect my work at all."
Other corporate men lean to more cutting-edge fashions, and they don't confine it to Fridays.
One trend is the return of the three-button single-breasted suit, which Herschlag calls "the suit of the '90s." Besides adding the extra button, these suits feature a narrower "gorge" - the exposed area between lapels - to create a slimmer silhouette.
Men are also going back to the future for inspiration. Offbeat selections, like wide-collar sport shirts, boxy zipper jackets and shirt jackets are in after years of being out.
Locally, the most popular looks are a tad more conservative, says Lisha Ford, district manager at Structure in Valley View Mall.
According to Ford, the acceptance of casual wear in the office has led to a popularity in easy-to-wear, comfortable fabrics and designs. Laundered khakis, striped polos and "denim or twill shirts with novelty ties" are hot. Cotton, linen and seersucker appear to be the fabrics of the season, says Davidson, though traditional wool is still popular, but in natural tones.
"Those items [wool] under more casual fabrics, like a knit sport shirt, have a look that is relaxed and comfortable but has some functionality," Davidson says.
One local trend that is also found nationally is the use of the blazer as a fashion accessory. Because of its flexibility - to dress up or dress down an ensemble - the blazer is a wardrobe staple found in many men's closet.
"It is the perfect cornerstone of an outfit because it dresses up with a shirt and tie and dresses down with a turtleneck or sport shirt," Herschlag says.
With all the options available to men this season, you will see more than a few male converts to the joys of shopping.
But proceed with caution.
The casual craze is a "niche that a lot of men are trying to fall into," says Davidson, "but many men are somewhat confused."
For many years, he says, men had already decided what to wear to work, because there was no choice, and therefore, no problem. Now, for some men, the options to cull over "has created a dilemma."
So men, next time your better female half takes an extra minute to get ready, cut her some slack, because as you'll soon discover, it ain't easy, it's a science.
by CNB