Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, April 16, 1995 TAG: 9505020075
SECTION: TRAVEL PAGE: F8 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: KAY MILLER
DATELINE: RICHMOND LENGTH: Long
Take your pick: art, history (both Revolutionary and Civil War), architecturally fascinating neighborhoods, kid stuff, science, shopping and night life. A bonus for the traveler is that most of these sites are in the general downtown area or just slightly outside it.
An introductory drive around Richmond will familiarize you with the city and its system of one-way streets downtown.
The Fan district, a turn-of-the century residential neighborhood whose premier thoroughfare is Monument Avenue, is a hotbed of mansion renovation.
Known as the Fan because of the way its streets radiate off Monroe Park, it is said to be the largest intact Victorian neighborhood in the United States and is a National Historic District. If you would like to walk the area, the Fan's inviting bistros and cafes can refresh you when you want a break.
Art lovers are bound to enjoy the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts on Boulevard at Grove Avenue, given its outstanding collections of art nouveau, art deco, contemporary and Himalayan art. A splendid feature of this museum is the collection given by the late Mr. and Mrs. Paul Mellon, which not only has wonderful French Impressionists but also a large collection of Faberge eggs and other fascinating miniatures of technical ingenuity produced by the Faberge craftsmen. If there's an animal lover in the family, be sure to see the Mellon collection of British sporting life, which focuses on horses in paintings and sculpture. The museum also displays English silver, as well as furniture from various periods.
Until April 30, the show "African Art, Spirit of the Motherland," will be at the VMFA. Among the 200 works of art are ancient sculptures and metal pieces from the Niger River area in Mali. If you take grandchildren along, you might pick up a free copy of the exhibit's Family Guide, which gives youngsters ideas to consider as they walk through the displays. VMFA hours are Tuesday-Sunday, 11-5; Thursday, 11-8.
The Virginia Historical Society is next door at 428 N. Boulevard, and offers seven galleries of rare Virginia artifacts and changing exhibits on the state's history. Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sunday,. 1-5 p.m..
Richmond is packed with history, and a good introduction is offered by Betty Bones, one of the guides (affectionately referred to as "dear old things" by Virginia legislators) at the Capitol, which was designed by Thomas Jefferson. She and her colleagues offer tours April through November 9 a.m.-5 p.m.; December through March 1-5 p.m. on Sundays. In the rotunda is the only statue sculpted from life of George Washington, considered to be the most valuable piece of marble sculpture in the country. In this building Aaron Burr was tried for treason, and Robert E. Lee took charge of the Confederate forces.
The Capitol is also interesting in that there is a lovely dome that can be seen only from inside the building. Jefferson did not want the dome to distract from the lines of his classical revival building, so the walls were brought high enough to obscure it. The building is still used for legislative and executive branches of government. During the Civil War it was the capitol building for the Confederacy, and St. Paul's Church, just across the street, was the church of the Confederacy. St. John's Episcopal Church, at 2401 E. Broad, on Church Hill, is Richmond's oldest church and the site of Patrick Henry's famous "Give me liberty or give me death" speech. Re-enactments are staged at the church summer Sundays at 2 p.m.
For a pleasant stroll, walk from the Capitol to the Museum and White House of the Confederacy at 1201 E. Clay St. The museum is relatively small but mounts interesting exhibits, such as one borrowed from the Museum of American Financial History in New York, America, Money and War: Financing the Civil War." It features examples of Confederate and U.S. currency and bonds, and discusses how financial circumstances and policies affected the war's outcome.
Other interesting displays include "From Sunup to Sunup: African-American Daily Life, 1800 - 1865," and "Embattled Emblem: the Army of Northern Virginia Battle Flag, 1861 to the Present." Veer to your left on exiting the museum's front door and you will find yourself at Jefferson Davis' former home, his White House during the Civil War.
A block or two up Clay Street is Valentine-Court End, a museum of Richmond life and history, named for a late, prominent Richmond citizen. It has a strong fashion and textile section, and a wonderful gift shop. Valentine-Riverside is a sister, but very different, institution down at the James River. It's on its way to being a great place for the kids. If the entire family is with you, the carousel and play areas will let the kids release some energy. And adults can watch a video and tour the site of what was the Trenegar Ironworks - the ironworks that produced the cannons and other implements of war for the Confederacy.
And then there's Shockoe Slip and Shockoe Bottom, the Black History Museum and Cultural Center, the Edgar Allen Poe Museum, Ginter Botanical Garden, Richmond Children's Museum, the Science Museum of Virginia ... .but I guess you get the idea.
Richmond offers far more to visitors than the tiled roof of a railroad station.
If You Go
Linden Row Inn, a charming 71-room historic inn in the downtown area, is on the National Register of Historic Places. Each room has authentic period antiques. Complimentary continental breakfast and evening wine and cheese reception are offered daily.
Call (804) 783-7000 or fax (804) 648-7504.
The Four-Diamond-rated Berkeley Hotel is in historic Shockoe Slip. Elegant guest rooms, dining, free parking for overnight guests . Popular with business visitors, it also offers weekend packages. Call (804) 780-1300.
The lobby of the Jefferson dazzles many visitors. This refurbished historic hotel has 274 rooms, including 26 suites. Their restaurant features Southern cuisine. Call (800) 424-8014 or (804) 788-8000.
Just about every major hotel chain is also represented.
For additional information, contact the Metro Richmond Convention and Visitors Bureau at (800) 365-7272 or (804) 782-2777. You may also drop by their offices at 550 E. Marshall St.
Kay Miller is a free-lance travel writer based in Raleigh, N.C.
by CNB