Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, April 23, 1995 TAG: 9504220002
SECTION: TRAVEL PAGE: F-8 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: KAY MILLER
DATELINE: WILMINGTON, N.C. LENGTH: Long
Wilmington, the stately Southern city in the equation, and Wrightsville, the sandy oceanfront, complement each other graciously - and on a year-round basis.
Most coastal areas, of course, boom in summer and are boarded up in winter. After Labor Day, the year-rounders breathe sighs of relief that finally they have their towns back once again.
Not so this stretch of southeastern North Carolina. It's true enough that in summer Wrightsville Beach provides anyone's fill of sun, sand and sea. Its origins, however, as a strand of large, airy summer homes for the affluent of Wilmington (who often came over by way of the trolley car) are still evident. New homes have arrived, as have some condos, a few hotels and restaurants, but Wrightsville remains a gracious beach, never lusting for the arcade and beach-front honky-tonk that marks many other coastal resorts .
Just over the causeway on the mainland, is Wilmington itself, a thriving city that combines a busy international port, a developing movie/TV production business, and bustling commercial district with wide avenues lined with enormous white-columned homes, a historic district, interesting restaurants, beautiful Spanish moss-draped gardens and an unaffected celebration of the arts.
Visitors can come here and quite happily never put their toes in the ocean. The mild climate makes it a year-round destination.
Getting to Wilmington is easy - by air to the New Hanover (County) International Airport; by road (Interstates 40, 95, U.S. 1 or 17) or by water - either by ocean or through the IntraCoastal Waterway.
In the early days of settlement, key rivers functioned as roads, encouraging exploration, settlement and trading. Thus it was with the Cape Fear River and Wilmington, whose founders situated it in a spot that sheltered ships from storms, and provided trading access to inland reaches of North Carolina.
In addition to all the pleasure boats that pull up to the docks, the USS North Carolina makes its home in a berth across the river. Dedicated to the memory of the 10,000 North Carolinians who died in World War II, the ship is open every day from 8 a.m. to sunset. Two self-guided tours are offered, both beginning with a 10-minute orientation film. The main deck is handicapped accessible.
Since being saved 33 years ago from the scrap heap (in large measure by 700,000 North Carolina schoolchildren, who donated their change to save the "Showboat"), the ship has always been painted gray. It was just given 800 gallons of variously colored paint to make it historically accurate in camouflage hues.
In addition, Myanmar (formerly Burma) is donating 40 tons of teak to replace the aging deck and is offering 137 tons more at a discount price. That work will take two years. Myanmar's gift is in recognition of the ship's role in the war.
The Department of Defense has designated the USS North Carolina to be one of four to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the end of World War II. That event will occur in September.
North Carolina also operates a deep-water port at Wilmington, making it routine to find sailors from many countries browsing through Chandler's Wharf or stopping for lunch along with the tourists. If England's HMS Bristol is in port, its crew offers free tours of the ship.
The city's early wealth is evident in the grand homes, some of which are open to the public - such as the Burgwin-Wright House (built in 1771 and commandeered by Lord Cornwallis as headquarters) and the Bellamy Mansion . The Bellamy, four stories and 22 rooms, is home to the Museum of Design Arts. Construction began on Thalian Hall Center for the Performing Arts in 1855 and performers of national and international renown appeared on its stage. Refurbished several years ago, the theater is very much in use by a dozen local groups and is visited by national touring companies.
During spring's Azalea Festival and fall's Riverfest many private homes are also opened for public visits. Spring is also a perfect time for a visit to nearby Orton Plantation and Gardens, and to Airlie Gardens. They are large estates, known for their extensive azalea plantings.
The 20-acre Airlie Gardens also has swan-graced reflecting pools, arbors, bridges and a Carolina jessamine-covered pergola. Orton is off North Carolina 133 at Winnabow, and was a former rice plantation. Its display varies throughout the year and is primarily natural in design. A lagoon in front of the main house is home to lots of mosquitoes in summer and also to a quiet, 10-foot alligator named Buster.
Shopping in downtown Wilmington is a pleasure. The older section of town is filled with tiny shops selling gifts, clothing, flowers, jewelry, kitchenware, imports, art, antiques, toys and furniture. Stroll from one to the other, stop for coffee or ice cream in one of the many intimate restaurants and coffee bars. Don't miss Chandler's Wharf and the Cotton Exchange, both restored areas that are a shopper's delight.
If you think you saw Andy Griffith on the sidewalk, you probably did. He films "Matlock" here, and, while the Carolco movie/TV studios are not open for public tour, Wilmington streets and exteriors often figure in the shooting.
When the film crews relax at day's end, they can head for clubs offering rock 'n' roll, jazz, karaoke, rhythm and blues.
Horse-drawn carriage tours are available through Riverfront Park and the downtown historic area, and sight-seeing riverboats share stories of harbor history. Two-hour walking tours are offered by Bob Jenkins' Wilmington Adventure Tours. They start at 10 and 2 at the corner of Market and Water Streets.
If you go ...
Catherine's Inn on Orange is in an Italianate home behind a picket fence in the heart of the Historic District. Four bedrooms, complimentary liqueur at bedtime, fine breakfast preceded by coffee delivered to your room, complimentary beer and wine, make this bed and breakfast a favorite. (800) 476-0723.
Taylor House Inn is another elegant B&B with enormous rooms, five large bedrooms, a rosewood baby grand, nightly wine and cheese socials, a full English and American breakfast and is convenient to downtown. (800) 382-9982.
Step inside the Worth House to find a wonderfully restored five bedroom inn, large garden with pools and herbs, full homemade breakfasts that can be taken anywhere on the property. The Azalea Room has its own glassed-in veranda; the Hibiscus Room has a breakfast nook in its turret. Children over 8 welcome. (910) 7628562.
Several large hotel chains are also in the city, as is The Cricket Inn, a budget bargain on Market Street. Weekly and monthly rates are also available. (800) 274-2537.
The Cape Fear Convention and Visitors Bureau is at 24 N. Third St., Wilmington, NC 28401. Call them at (800) 222-4757 or (910) 3414030.
Kay Miller is a free-lance travel writer based in Raleigh, N.C.
by CNB