Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, April 30, 1995 TAG: 9505020155
SECTION: CURRENT PAGE: NRV3 EDITION: NEW RIVER VALLEY
SOURCE: JOANNE ANDERSON STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: RADFORD LENGTH: Medium
``Many Europeans emigrated to the Americas following World War II,'' he said, ``and a large Italian contingent settled in northern Argentina and southern Brazil.''
Italian cuisine in South America had a great presence, and its influence spread quickly. Fonseca grew up having fettucine on Sundays and enjoying all the Italian foods, from the simple to the sublime.
This explains, in a nutshell, why so many Brazilians in Southwest Virginia have Italian restaurants and why Fonseca himself now has one, an upscale one at that. Located in the center of Norwood Street in downtown Radford, Carmella's is a softly lit, unobtrusively decorated, linen-tabled dinner place.
Walls are partially striped in vertical bands of cream and black. Burgundy and white linens are a cut above the characteristic Italian black and red. Fresh flowers, soft music and candlelight create a quiet, intimate setting.
Only part of what will be offered is now on the menu, because Fonseca, 43, believes that slow growth better prepares the staff to do everything well.
Two other Fonsecas direct operations in the kitchen: Paulo, 44, former chef at an Italian restaurant in Winchester, and Raul, 39, former owner of the Winchester restaurant. Together, they're concocting classic and innovative Italian dishes, along with a few surprises, like the calamari fritti - fried squid - appetizer.
``We are not trying to be like authentic Italians,'' Reinaldo said. ``We are Brazilian, and sometimes we even add our Latin spices and palate tastes to an Italian entree. But we've been around Italian food all our lives.''
The brothers don't always agree, but they respect one another's ideas and experiences. Paulo has some culinary schooling, and all of them have worked with Italians in restaurants since coming to the United States many years ago.
Paulo said one thing they definitely agree on is using as many fresh ingredients as they can. Most of the pasta is now purchased, but Paulo makes it from scratch for some of his daily specials.
If squid's not your favorite appetizer, you can choose clams casino, escargot champignon, minestrone or pasta faggiolli soup, warm spinach salad or hot cheesy garlic bread.
Traditional pasta dishes such as manicotti, lasagna and linguine are available, but the gourmet presentation is more fully realized in entrees such as pollo di mare and zuppa de pesce. The former teams chicken chunks with sea scallops, and they're both sauteed in white wine and herbs. A delicate touch of garlic is evident only after a few bites, and it's all served over angel hair pasta.
The zuppa de pesce includes shrimp, mussels, clams, white fish and scallops. Four veal entrees, a New York strip and a top choice aged steak and chicken - stuffed, simmered or sauteed - are now on the menu.
The wine list is predictable: Brazilian and Italian. But there's also American wine, from Virginia and California, and a couple of French varieties.
Current dessert choices - banana chocolate chip cake, banana bella (fried bananas over ice cream and under whipped cream) and banana cheesecake -are definitely not Italian, but are some of Paulo's favorites.
That's not really a surprise ending, is it? After all, he is an authentic Brazilian.
Carmella's
Address: 1033 Norwood St., Radford
Phone: 731-1552
Hours: Monday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5-11 p.m.; closed Sundays
Specialties: Scallopine di vitella, pollo di mare, zuppa de pesce
Beverages: Full bar
Price range: $5.95-$14.95
Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa, American Express
Reservations: Recommended
Smoking section
Handicapped accessible
by CNB