Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: WEDNESDAY, May 3, 1995 TAG: 9505040028
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: 1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: DELORES KOSTELNI SPECIAL TO THE ROANOKE TIMES & WORLD-NEWS
DATELINE: LENGTH: Medium
On this day, the Mexican army, led by General Ignacio Zaragosa, stood tall against the French invaders who outnumbered the defenders three to one. The French, under orders from Napoleon III, were looking to grab territory to compensate for the loss of Louisiana. But the Mexicans surprised them. Although the victory only stalled the French for a few months, the win endeared General Zaragosa to his countrymen forever.
To this day, everyone across the land celebrates Cinco de Mayo with dancing, revelry, and food. It's a time for the zesty, colorful dishes of Mexico and our own Southwest. Look to two new cookbooks for exceptional recipes: Donna Nordin's "Contemporary Southwest" and Victoria Wise's "The Vegetarian Table: Mexico."
Both authors use the typical native ingredients but with a defined style. They focus on freshness, healthful preparations and appealing presentations. Their instructions are clear, straightforward, and helpful. Extraordinary photographs arouse the palate and inspire the cooking.
Most of the ingredients required for the recipes in both these books are found at local supermarkets in the gourmet, produce, and Mexican food sections, although they may not be in stock all of the time. I found several of the items I needed at the Oriental Market on Williamson Road.
Donna Nordin serves the dishes featured in this first cookbook at her restaurant, Cafe Terra Cotta, in Tucson, Arizona. In 1991, Conde'Nast Traveler magazine, rated Cafe Terra Cotta "one of America's 50 best restaurants." In 1993, John Mariani of Esquire magazine hailed it as one of the "best new restaurants in the nation."
Nordin became smitten with the combination of textures, flavors, and colors of border Mexican food as a youngster growing up in San Diego. Her culinary education in classic French techniques formalized the passions of her palate. It was only a matter of time before she and other young restaurateurs from California and the southwest started expanding the interplay of familiar ingredients to arrive at unexpected - and sensational - results.
Enticing recipes abound throughout "Contemporary Southwest." I've tried the mango pear salsa and enjoyed its play of flavors. (I even spiked plain yogurt with it.) Ouesadillas with grilled shiitake mushrooms and Jarlsberg cheese give new meaning to the treasures within a folded tortilla.
As a first course, I found the garlic custards with vinaigrette and buttered hazelnuts totally elegant. Steak salad with sauteed red and yellow peppers, mussel salad with corn and red pepper, and cheese-stuffed ouail (I used Cornish hen) are terrific anytime of the year.
But I await this year's garden so I can prepare Nordin's summer squash soup. This contains both zucchini and yellow squashes plus a surprise ingredient, smoked salmon. Believe it or not, you haven't tasted meat loaf until you've devoured meat loaf with Yucatecan chili sauce as an entree and a sandwich filling. It will be your new stand-by. Desserts conclude the book, but I didn't get around to making any of them.
Victoria Wise was the chef who put the famous Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California, on the national restaurant map. She also is the author of four useful cookbooks, including her newest, "The Vegetarian Table: Mexico." Unlike any other Mexican or vegetarian book, this particular one uses only a little olive oil and bits of butter for the preparations. Most of these recipes are healthful. There's no lard. Wise marries tradition with innovation for these sensational dishes.
Eighty delectable recipes range from salsas and condiments to an array of open-faced sandwiches called Tortilla Cuisine; to soups, chowders, and gazpacho; to pasta, rice and bean dishes; to salads and vegetables, and the finale of several extraordinary sweets. You will serve these dishes on your finest china to your most special guests and they will applaud your cooking.
I adored everything I made from this book and so did those who ate with me. Try the simmered vegetable tacos or An Unclassic Tostada for a splendid lunch. If you love your pasta, spaghetti with spinach, chiles, cream, and almonds will bring spunk to your repertoire. Macaroni and cheese Mexican-style is destined to replace your north-of-the-border version. Salads don't get better than Romaine with creamy Roquefort dressing and cornmeal chile strips. Chiles Rellenos with ancho chiles and cherry tomato salsa are stuffed with goat cheese and cooked (surprise!) in the microwave.
On my next foray into Victoria Wise's special Mexican vegetarian cooking, I am planning to make the vegetarian mixed grill feast and place them in the company of bean cakes with fresh tomato salsa. This summer, I will pair watermelon and jicama. I can't wait. But right now, Viva! Cinco De Mayo!
by CNB