Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, May 7, 1995 TAG: 9505050031
SECTION: TRAVEL PAGE: F-8 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: DAVID NICHOLSON NEWPORT NEWS DAILY PRESS
DATELINE: CHARLESTON, S.C. LENGTH: Long
I traveled down Interstate 95, got off at Dillon, S.C., and headed southeast on the back roads through the center of the state. Route 41 passes through small towns like Mullins and Hemingway and by farmland dotted with the skeletons of dilapidated barns.
It was an appropriate way to travel back in time before my arrival in Charleston. Though this genteel city attracts international festivalgoers for Spoleto and a torrent of tourists and conventioneers throughout the year, it stays tenaciously rooted in the past. Strict preservation laws and an enlightened citizenry have enabled Charleston to hold on to its hospitable charm. A small city planted in the southeast corner of the state, Charleston borders the Ashley and Cooper rivers that flow into Charleston Harbor. Its mouth is guarded by Fort Sumter, the site of the first skirmish in the War Between the States on April 12, 1861. Beyond the fort lies the Atlantic Ocean.
The British first landed in the region in 1670 and christened it Albemarle Point. The name later was changed to Charles Towne after King Charles II of England. The city's prime location helped it become a busy seaport that eventually surpassed Boston in maritime activity. East Bay Street, now a popular site for restaurants and shops, once housed warehouse buildings.
Charleston has endured attacks by the Indians and the English, and survived fires and hurricanes that destroyed hundreds of homes. Yet much of its architectural beauty has been retained over the years. One unique example is the 18th-century Charleston ``single'' house, which is one room wide and extends back with a two-story piazza, or porch, on the side.
Transportation offers another unique quality here. During Spoleto, strong-legged college students pedaling rickshaws shuttle festivalgoers between performances. And for a proper introduction to the city's history, horse-and-buggy rides are a must. But the splendor of Charleston is revealed in walking it. Its manageable size makes it ideal for leisurely strolls.
When venturing out, your first stop should be the Battery, a large retaining wall that overlooks the harbor. There, you can take in the exquisite row of mansions built after 1820. On the interior streets, huge homes loom behind walls along the narrow crooked streets in the South of Broad Street district, where the bluest of the blue bloods live.
Some of the city's finest homes, such as the Nathaniel Russell House at 51 Meeting St., have been turned into museums, open to the public for a nominal charge. Walking allows you to linger at the gates and peer through tall, spiked fences at the elaborate interior gardens, many with fountains, ponds and sculptured hedges amid brilliant blankets of flowers and huge magnolia and cypress trees. On warm days during the festival, you frequently hear classical music drifting from the windows of these stately residences.
After exploring the Battery and South of Broad districts, wander along East Bay Street to be tempted by restaurants, bookstores and gift shops. Stroll through the newly constructed city park that includes a large wooden pier jutting into the harbor. Further up East Bay, another walking tour takes you through Ansonborough, a once rundown residential neighborhood that has been meticulously restored. Another way to sample the city's history is through its numerous churches. Many open their doors and lend their superb acoustics for Spoleto performances.
In the center of the city lies the outdoor market, now home to shops, craftsmen and other exhibitors. This is the place to find carriage rides and shop for handmade sweet grass baskets made by craftswomen from the surrounding low country region.
At the top of the market stands The Omni Hotel at Charleston Place, a ritzy hotel filled with designer shops such as Gucci, Polo/Ralph Lauren and Laura Ashley. The complex borders King Street on the other side, where more shopping and the city's best antiques can be found.
When your feet give out, you can choose any number of restaurants and hotel dining rooms that offer great meals. Stop in for a drink at the elegant Mills House Hotel (Meeting and Queen streets), eat a Creole lunch at Poogan's Porch (72 Queen St.), feast on authentic Italian fare at Celia's Porta Via (49 Archdale St.) or enjoy trendy bistro food at Carolina's (10 Exchange St.). Charleston doesn't lack great places to eat.
If the Spoleto festival doesn't draw you here, come in March and April for the Festival of Houses and Gardens or in October, when the Preservation Society sponsors candlelight tours. Charleston will bring you back time and time again.
For those who want to extend their stay to several days or more, here are some must-see sites in and around the city:
Boone Hall Plantation. This estate owned by Major John Boone was once the site of a 17,000-acre cotton plantation. Located in the suburb of Mount Pleasant off Highway 17 North.
The Citadel. One of the last military state colleges in the nation, this school may not keep its all-male status for long. The public is invited to its Friday afternoon dress parade.
Drayton Hall. The oldest and finest example of Georgian Palladian architecture built before the American Revolution. Located nine miles northwest of the city on Highway 61, the hall is open for tours most days.
Middleton Place. A frequent site of Spoleto's outdoor finale concert, this 18th-century rice plantation was the place where the camellia was introduced to America. Located 14 miles northwest of the city on Highway 61.
Kiawah Island. A popular resort named for the Kiawah Indians, located about 21 miles south of Charleston. Golf, tennis and fishing are the attractions here, and rentals are available.
by CNB