Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, August 13, 1995 TAG: 9508150084
SECTION: DISCOVER ROANOKE VALLEY PAGE: 13 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: BETSY BIESENBACH STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: LENGTH: Long
\ When I first visited Roanoke in the spring of 1979 as the guest of a college friend, I had no idea that in a few short years, I would be living here, or that I would make this place my permanent home.
On the night we arrived, my friend took me to a back bedroom on the top floor of her grandmother's large Southwest City home and proudly pointed out something she called "The Star." All I could see was a far-away smudge of bright light. Because it seemed so important to Gretchen, I nodded politely and tried to look interested. I was to discover later that you have to see the star to really understand it.
The next day, after a sightseeing trip around the city, Gretchen's grandmother took us up Mill Mountain for a cold and windy picnic. There, for the first time, I saw what all the fuss was about.
The Roanoke star is a monument to the wanton use of neon. It is one of the world's largest man-made stars. It was erected in 1949 "as a symbol of the progressive spirit of Roanoke, the Star City of the South," or so says a large plaque riveted to the base.
The entire structure is 100 feet high. It weighs 70,000 pounds, and uses 2,000 feet of neon tubing. It is 1,045 feet above sea level, and it can be seen from a distance of 60 miles from the air. Best of all, it's a free night light for those lucky residents of Southeast who live directly below it.
Of course, there is the obvious question, the one my friend Franz asked me on a recent visit from Germany: "Why?"
"Because." I told him. "Just because."
My family thinks the star is tacky. So do I. But it's ours, all ours, and we Roanokers like it that way. So anytime I have company from out of town, I take them to the star, whether they want to go or not.
Of course, you can stare at 2,000 feet of neon for just so long. The real attraction of the star is the overlook. The entire city and much of the county is spread out below the large wooden deck, and it's a beautiful sight, both at night and during the day. During the spring, before the trees are in full leaf, the view is at its best, and you might catch sight of some early blooming plants.
The overlook is so beautiful, you might think it would be a nice, romantic place to take your sweetie for a little quiet time. And so it is. But keep in mind that you are not the only one to have that idea.
Down the path from the main overlook is another viewing platform that's not quite as crowded, and there's a picnic area nearby. The old carriage road up the mountain was blocked to automobile traffic several years ago, but adventurous souls can still walk it. I recommend going down it, not up. .
Last but not least, Mill Mountain is the home of our regional zoo. OK, so there are no elephants, and you won't see any hippos lounging in the mud, but there is a real Siberian tiger, red pandas, reptiles, birds and 45 other species of exotic and native animals. My favorite exhibit is the prairie dog town. Something's always going on in the little rodent community.
The zoo is the only attraction on Mill Mountain that you have to pay to see, but part of the admission fee goes toward the zoo's conservation efforts. The cost is $3.50 for adults and $2 for children. The zoo is open year-round from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., and until 7:30 p.m. on Fridays between Memorial Day and Labor Day.
On your way back from the zoo, don't miss the wildflower garden planted by the Mill Mountain Garden Club. It's a peaceful little walk down winding paths past a huge variety of native flowers, set off by quiet stone-lined ponds.
To get to Mill Mountain, go downtown to Jefferson Street, then turn onto the Walnut Avenue Bridge. It leads to the Parkway Spur Road. Just follow the signs from there.
One of the most outstanding features of this part of the state is that it's a very outdoorsy place. Whenever anyone asks to visit me in the winter, I make them come in the springtime.
The Appalachian Trail is an attraction that's open year-round, but for weenie hikers like me, who don't want to be too hot or too cold, but j-u-u-ust right, springtime is the best time to go. And a hike is a sure cure for that first bout of spring fever.
Of course, it's also one of those attractions that those of us who live here take for granted, myself included, so I have to admit that I've been on the trail just once, and only once, but I did enjoy it.
The entire trail is 2,100 miles long, and stretches from Maine to Georgia, but a good 500 miles of it lies within Virginia, and there are numerous access points in Roanoke, Craig and Botetourt counties. One of the most popular destinations close to Roanoke is Dragon's Tooth, which has a parking area just off Virginia 311. It's a strenuous hike up to a jagged rock outcropping, but well worth it for the view.
If you'd like to get back to nature a little farther from home, you might consider a trip to Mount Rogers National Recreation Area in the George Washington and Jefferson National Forests, where there's more outdoor stuff to do than your family could get around to in a week.
The recreation area covers 115,000 acres surrounding Mount Rogers, the highest point in Virginia at 5,729 feet. There are nine campgrounds, ranging in style from primitive (that means portable/vault toilets and no running water) to modern (warm showers, flush toilets and running water).
Each site has is own picnic table and grill or fireplace. Some areas have group campsites, and there are several group picnic shelters. Some of the campgrounds require reservations, others operate on a first-come, first-served basis
Some camping areas are fully paved and wheelchair-accessible, and park employees and volunteer hosts will often lead nature hikes and interpretive walks.
A few of the campgrounds cater to those who just can't take a vacation without their favorite horse or pony, and others are set near prime fishing areas.
In fact, there are several trails that are open to horseback riding. They feature hitching rails and plenty of space for trailer parking.
At one time, a rail line known as the Virginia Creeper, which originally was an Indian trail, ran through the park. The rail line was abandoned in 1977 and put to use as a hiking trail. It winds its way from Abingdon to Green Cove at the Virginia-North Carolina state line. It passes over 100 spectacular trestles and bridges. Its steep grades gave the trail its name: the powerful steam locomotives could do no more than creep along it.
Hikers, bikers (the nonmotorized kind) and horses are all allowed on the trail.
There are many ways to get to the Mount Rogers Recreational Area, depending on where you're coming from. The best thing to do is to call the park at 783-5196, and the nice people there will send you all kinds of information.
For golf fans, the Cascades course at the Homestead resort in Hot Springs is acknowledged to be one of the best in the state. This course was designed by Donald Ross, Robert Trent Jones and William S. Flynn, and has been the site of several men's and women's USGA Amateur Championships.
The Cascades was recently ranked No. 39 in the nation for 1995-1996 by Golf Digest magazine, up from No. 95 last year.
So what's it like? I don't know, but my friend Lynn Cox, who practically goes into withdrawal during the winter when she can't play, does.
"You have to play the course with a lot of intelligence," she said. The designers wanted to create a challenge, and "they succeeded."
It's the kind of course that a novice could appreciate, she said, but because tee times are carefully scheduled, an inexperienced golfer might become frustrated with trying to keep up.
The course is "beautifully maintained", she said, and the scenery is gorgeous.
The drive to Hot Springs is one of the most scenic in the area. From Roanoke, take I-81 north to U.S. 220. At Clifton Forge, 220 and I-64 merge, but you can easily follow the signs to get back on 220. You'll be at the Homestead within an hour from there.
A word of warning: It's not a trip for the weak-stomached. The road is very good, but there's one hairpin turn after another, and it can easily induce queasiness.
Speaking of being queasy, if you want to go see the Booker T. Washington National Monument in Franklin County, don't take scenic, but twisty, Virginia 116 up Windy Gap Mountain. Instead, take the kinder, gentler U.S. 220 to Rocky Mount. From there, you can take Virginia 122 east, which passes right by the park. If you have kids along, they'll appreciate the fact that you'll also pass by two Dairy Queens, and that there is a Hardee's, a McDonald's and a Burger King in Rocky Mount.
Once they've filled up on 20th century junk food, they may be in the mood to really enjoy discovering what life was like for a 19th century slave child.
Washington, of course, was a famous educator, orator, and author of the book "Up From Slavery." Born in Franklin County, he founded the Tuskeegee Institute in Alabama, one of the first colleges for black Americans.
In a way, the Booker T. Washington Monument is like a local version of Jamestown. The park's designers have re-created nearly every aspect of plantation life, from the kitchens and tobacco barns, right down to a replica of a privy. Park workers present slide shows and films about Washington's life, and even provide popcorn on special occasions, but the main feature of the site is a self-guided tour of the reconstructed farm.
Visitors are free to wander by the barns, where real horses and sheep can be found grazing. There are chickens and ducks at the henhouse, and there is a blacksmith's shed where, from time to time, demonstrations are held. If you'd like to visit the monument, it would be wise to do it soon. Congress has proposed closing the site, along with several other small national parks all over the nation.
by CNB