Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: WEDNESDAY, August 30, 1995 TAG: 9508300017
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: 8 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: CHARLES STEBBINS STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: LENGTH: Medium
American restaurants make much ado about their low-calorie, low-salt, low-fat "lite" food and diet beverages. Artificial sweeteners are available everywhere. But in England there is virtually none of that. Restaurant menus make no mention of lite foods, and not only are artificial sweeteners not readily available, white refined sugar and light brown raw, or cane, sugar are the standards.
While in the states, I am a health-conscious diner and an avid salad lover - maybe even a salad fanatic. But most restaurants in England don't have salad bars - and certainly none have the megachoice, mix-and-match, make-your-own salad buffet islands to which I am accustomed.
English diners eat their vegetables nearly always cooked. They eat lots of bread, nearly always cold. They also eat fish, chicken, beef, pork, lamb and mutton, sometimes in combinations. And they don't seem the least bit concerned about calories, fat, cholesterol and such. Nor do they seem unhealthy because of it.
During a recent visit to England, I decided (or was forced) to temporarily cast health concerns to the wind and follow the philosophy of "When in Rome ..." The adaptation began with a big change from my usual morning meal of cereal and juice.
A "Full English Breakfast," standard on nearly all menus, consists of two fried eggs, a large piece of link sausage, a thick slice of ham, a baked tomato, mushrooms, biscuits with jelly or jam and an unlimited supply of toast. Along with this, if desired, is dry cereal with fruit and fruit juice. Also, tea, coffee or milk.
I ate a Full English Breakfast every morning on the theory that if I could not get a simple veggie salad for lunch, I would indulge in the famous breakfast and let it sustain me for the rest of the day. And usually, it did.
If lunch was wanted at all, it could be something light like the specialty cucumber, lettuce and tomato sandwich. In my case, however, breakfast sufficed well into the evening, when I would set out in search of some supper.
British restaurants' appealing practice of posting menus with prices on the front windows helped me get an idea of what to expect, both food- and cost-wise, inside.
Right away, I noticed that many British restaurants serve nearly all of their dishes with an a la carte option. Names could get a little tricky, too. For example, chips were what to order if you wanted what Americans call French fried potatoes. Potato chips in the U.S. are "crisps" in England. An Americans' baked potato is an Englishman's jacket potato. Porridge is actually just oatmeal, but it somehow tasted better in merrie old England.
Many dishes were heavily seasoned with curry, probably because of the large number of people from India who have settled in England, especially in the large cities. Yet, despite the spicy seasonings, most British restaurants gave the diner water only if it was requested. Tap water, often served with a slice of lemon, was free. Bottled water cost about 29 pence (or about 50 cents in U.S. currency) per glass.
As I and my belly became more accustomed to doing as the English do, my spirit of adventure soared. In Scotland, I consumed a national dish called haggis. The flat-tasting, pudding-like concoction had a consistency similar to poultry dressing and an unappetizing blackish color. It was made of the lungs, heart and other internal organs of a sheep or calf, mixed with suet, seasoning and oatmeal and boiled inside the stomach of the animal. I knew all of this and ate it anyway. But I really would have preferred a salad.
by CNB