Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, September 3, 1995 TAG: 9509070011
SECTION: HOMES PAGE: D-1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: JOHN ARBOGAST
DATELINE: LENGTH: Medium
A: Recommendations must be based on identification of the culprit. Take a sample of it to a landscape expert for diagnosis. Small white mothlike insects that can occur on azalea leaves, not the soil, would be the hard-to-control pest called whiteflies. These insects suck plant juices rather than eating holes in leaves.
Acid plant food can be an excellent way to apply nutrients to plants that prefer an acidic soil. However, nutrients, if needed, are beneficial in the spring when new growth is desired rather than now, late in the growing season, when lush growth is not wanted.
Q: Earlier this summer, we found the remains of a bird that had flown into the open end of one of our clothesline poles. The bird must have gotten stuck. We will cover the ends of the poles with cans to prevent future entries. What do you suggest?
A: Physical exclusion is one of the best bird deterrent methods.
Q: Our garden has been in the same spot for at least 25 years. The ground has become so hard that our plants can't develop deep enough roots to grow and produce properly. The land has been plowed about eight to 10 inches deep each year, but this doesn't seem to help our problem. What can I do? If I sow the land in orchard grass, will the sod cure this problem? If so, how long will this take? R.F., Pearisburg
A: Your soil needs lots of organic matter. As soon as areas have finished producing, mix in organic items such as old mulches, manures or clean remains of summer plants. Sow garden cover crops, which you'll mix into the soil in mid to late winter. Don't use orchard grass. Make these annual practices.
Try minimum-till gardening to reduce the amount of garden plowing, since repeated tillings to a similar depth year after year can create a hard soil layer just below where the plow or tiller tines reach. It might take a couple of years before your garden soil is ready, but the idea is to plant the spring or summer garden in holes or furrows made into mulch or cutoff cover crops rather than completely tilled soil.
Q: How can I eliminate moles from a small bed of annuals, perennials and shrubs? They are tunneling in mulch next to the foundation; the holes are approximately one inch in diameter. E.C., Roanoke
A: Traps used according to package directions are the primary control method recommended. Be sure that the activity is still going on. These traps are specifically designed for this pest and are available at garden/farm centers or hardware stores.
Q: We have several crape myrtles. In the past, we have cut them back sometime in early spring. We noticed that they didn't bloom as well, so this year we didn't cut them back. One of them still didn't produce any blooms, even though it looked like it would bloom. The others bloomed. What is the best procedure for taking care of them, and when is the best time of year for cutting them back? D.W.B., Salem
A: Severe stress on any crape myrtle, such as winter injury, can prevent it from blooming for one or more years, even though proper care is given. Proper crape myrtle care includes: weekly waterings during spring or summer droughts, especially if the soil is shallow or rocky; maintaining adequate sun by pruning encroaching neighboring plants; and control of the fungus disease powdery mildew if it starts. Pruning is an optional practice for crape myrtles, but you are correct in the early to mid spring timing, just as the crape myrtle's new spring growth appears.
Send short questions about your lawn, garden, plants or insects to Dear John, c/o The Roanoke Times, P.O. Box 2491, Roanoke 24010-2491. We need your mail, but this column can't reply to all letters. Those of wide appeal will be answered during the weeks that the subject is timely. Personal replies cannot be given. Please don't send stamps, stamped envelopes, samples or pictures.
by CNB