
                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: WEDNESDAY, September 27, 1995                   TAG: 9509270019
SECTION: EXTRA                    PAGE: 10   EDITION: METRO 
SOURCE: BETH CRITTENDEN
DATELINE:                                 LENGTH: Medium

EXPERIMENT WITH THE ABCS OF WINE - ANYTHING BUT CHARDONNAY, THAT IS

Chardonnay has become a household word, often referring to any white wine, and its popularity overshadows a wide array of less common white grape varietals.

However, Chardonnay is not the most food-friendly of white wines, especially in the style many Americans currently prefer - big, buttery and oaky. Fun to sip and taste, I agree, but what foods do you match with oak?

Some wine makers are crafting Chardonnays in a less overpowering, more subtle style, emphasizing the fruit, rather than the oak. But for those of us who like to pair foods and wines, the best Chardonnay may be no Chardonnay at all. Here are some nontraditional white wine alternatives:

Pinot gris typically is grown in cooler regions in Europe, Oregon and a few other places in the U.S. It has a naturally high acidity and often a smoky, round quality that may give the impression of oak aging, but rarely is this wine aged in barrels. Shellfish is a natural accompaniment to Pinot Gris, and salmon - especially smoked - is the food match of choice for many Oregonians.

Gewurztraminer - easy to grow and hard to say - can be delicious. Often made in an off-dry style, Gewurztraminer, which again gets its roots from Germany, is great for picnics, light salads and sandwiches. I prefer a dry, fuller, Alsatian-style Gewurztraminer to serve with richer, spicy dishes, including many ethnic specialties.

Chenin blanc is made dry or sweet and makes a great sipping wine or accompaniment to lighter foods, such as a chicken salad, cold soup or fruit. The grape is popular in California, Washington State and the Loire Valley in France, from which we get true Vouvray.

Pinot blanc is another Alsatian varietal gaining popularity in California and a few other regions. A versatile wine, it can be oak aged for a fuller "big Chardonnay" style or crafted without oak for a cleaner, crisper style. Pinot blancs from Alsace have an alluring floral characteristic.

Riesling is an easy-to-grow and extremely versatile grape found all over the world. It receives much less attention than Chardonnay, but a bone dry Riesling can be every bit as complex and interesting as the finest of Chardonnays. Riesling is most commonly linked with its homeland of Germany and can be made in a dry, perfect-for-dinner style to an off-dry aperitif style to a very sweet dessert wine.

Semillon often is used as a blending grape with Sauvignon blanc as seen in white Bordeaux from the Graves region, or with Chardonnay from Australia. It also is the basis for great French sauternes. There are some "pure" Semillons produced in the U.S. and down under that make a great accompaniment to herbed chicken or seafood dishes. The wines depend on the wine maker's style and some are oak aged for added richness, while others may be crafted without oak for a fresher and more lively wine.

Sauvignon blanc often is associated with attractive citrus and herbal aromas and, as a rule, makes a nice pairing with foods using fresh herbs and grilled entrees. Also called Fume blanc, it is widely grown throughout Europe, North and South America, Australia and New Zealand, and can be blended with other varietals or made in its pure form.

Other lesser known whites such as Muscat Canelli, Muller Thurgau, Muscadet, Viognier, Marsanne and Seyval blanc can be found in restaurants and wine shops in Southwest Virginia, although sometimes in very limited quantities. They are worth the effort if you are looking for an interesting Chardonnay alternative. Some of these wines will be available to taste at the next Roanoke Valley Wine Society tasting, Thursday, 7 p.m. at Corned Beef & Co. The topic will be "Anything But Chardonnay."

Cheers!

PINOT GRIS STEAMED CLAMS WITH GARDEN HERBS

4 pounds small steamer clams

2 cups Pinot Gris

Juice of one lemon

2 Tbsp. minced garlic

4 Tbsp. chopped fresh garden herbs (thyme, oregano, tarragon, parsley, rosemary, etc.)

1/4 Tbsp. crushed red chili pepper

2 Tbsp. butter

Salt and pepper, to taste

Place the butter, herbs, garlic and chili pepper in a large saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. Simmer over medium heat for two to three minutes. Add the Pinot Gris, lemon juice and clams.

Bring to a boil, cover and cook for three to five minutes. Discard any clams that have not opened. Adjust the seasoning to taste with salt and pepper. Serve in shallow bowls with lemon and herb garnishes and Pinot Gris. Serves four.

- CHEF GREG HIGGINS, PORTLAND, ORE.

by CNB