
                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: FRIDAY, October 6, 1995                   TAG: 9510060019
SECTION: EXTRA                    PAGE: 1   EDITION: METRO 
SOURCE: DOLORES KOSTELNI SPECIAL TO THE ROANOKE TIMES
DATELINE:                                 LENGTH: Medium

THE OUTBACK STEAKHOUSE DOES IT RIGHT

When the Outback Steakhouse opened its doors in April, it quickly became one of the most popular restaurants in the Roanoke Valley. It's no wonder. Anyone who had ever been to an Outback knew what to expect: generous portions of tasty, freshly assembled, consistently prepared, reasonably priced foods served at a swift pace. These are the hallmarks of this successful 11-year-old restaurant chain whose three owners were voted 1994 "entrepreneurs of the year" by the editors of Inc. magazine.

As the name Outback suggests, an Australian theme dominates the menu. Even though the dishes have catchy Down Under names - like "boomerang burger" ($2.95) and "veggie pasta Pemberton" ($8.95) - the food is straightforward all-American in style, preparation and form. Clear menu descriptions prevent any mysteries about a meal.

Five of us usually began dinner by sharing the house signature dish, a tremendous battered and crunchy "fried bloomin' onion" ($4.95) and a plateful of zesty Buffalo-style "kookaburra wings" ($4.95). A bowl of "walkabout soup" ($1.95) - a too-thick, creamy onion soup - came piping hot but left our tastebuds cold for lack of definition and substantial flavor. Perhaps the best salad in town is the Outback house ($1.95) version, a mountain of absolutely fresh, crisp Romaine lettuce with tomato wedges and red onion rings. It's so fresh that I prefer it without dressing.

Our choice of beverages runs the gamut from refreshing Luzianne iced tea to large glasses of two Australian products, Seppelt Cabernet Shiraz ($3.85) and Foster's beer.

My favorite entree, the "Jackaroo chops" ($10.95), features two 8-ounce, lean and tender center-cut pork chops that always arrive cooked to my well-done specs. Although orange marmalade and horseradish dipping sauce accompany the chops, I prefer dipping each bite in the meat juices that pool on the plate. In addition to the chops, overly thickened, gooey cinnamon apples and a giant-sized jacket (baked) potato fill the plate.

Another choice meal, the Drover's platter ($10.95), combines a half rack of succulent baby back ribs and a huge, nicely seasoned, barbecue sauce-basted chicken breast. This platter makes the decision for you when you can't make up your mind between a whole rack of baby back ribs ($10.95) and the chicken breast ($7.95) on the barbie.

Salmon filet was the "Botany Bay fish o' the day" ($10.95). Lightly seasoned and nicely grilled with a side of steamed broccoli and cauliflower florets, this delectable dish alone will draw me back. It's honest, unadorned and delicious.

Victoria's filet ($13.95), a nine-ounce beef tenderloin encircled with crisp bacon, satisfied my craving for a good piece of red meat. This particular cut was perfectly grilled and unsurpassed for its tenderness and flavor.

Larger than life desserts are the rule. Our favorite, "chocolate thunder from down under" ($3.95), can't be beat for rhyme or calories. A huge, warm brownie wears a Mt. Everest of melting vanilla ice cream with running streams of hot chocolate sauce and a heap of chocolate curls. Mmmm.

My only gripe is the speedy service. It goes beyond fast. One course comes so quickly on the heels of the previous dish that the food doesn't have a chance to settle in the stomach, and I get too full too soon. (All of us voiced this same complaint during three dinners.) On my last visit, I asked for a more slowly paced service. What I received was not as rapid as usual, but I still felt rushed. This problem has an easy, obvious solution.

I tip my hat to the Outback Steakhouse. The Roanoke facility, like all the others, sparkles with cleanliness. I enjoy the wholesome, fresh food and the well-trained yet bubbly personnel. The Outback Steakhouse serves consistently prepared dishes at affordable prices in a casual, comfortable environment; it's a "tucker" every city deserves to have.

\ Outback Steakhouse

4380 Franklin Road

(U.S. 220 South)

(540) 776-3238

HOURS: Monday through Thursday 4-10:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday: 4-l l:30 p.m, Sunday: 4-9:30 p.m.

BEVERAGES: full range of alcoholic and nonalcoholic

PRICE RANGE: $8.45-$17.95

CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED: Visa, Mastercard, Diner's Club, American Express

RESERVATIONS REQUIRED? no

NONSMOKING SECTION? yes

HANDICAPPED-ACCESSIBLE? yes

Dining Out's evaluations of restaurant accessibility to the handicapped are conducted by the nonprofit Blue Ridge Independent Living Center.

Dolores Kostelni is the author of "Cookies by the Dozen," which will be published in October by Warner Books.

by CNB