Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, October 22, 1995 TAG: 9510210009
SECTION: TRAVEL PAGE: G-8 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: SUZANNE MURPHY-LARRONDE
DATELINE: LENGTH: Long
One of the least known of these small outposts is tranquil Iles des Saintes (named for the All Saints Day when they were sighted by Columbus in 1493), located about 10 miles south of Guadeloupe.
While boasting many of the attractions of its larger siblings such as Martinique, this diminutive archipelago has the added advantage of being far removed from the usual tourism routes.
Iles des Saintes or Les Saintes, as this cluster of eight landfalls is more commonly called, serves as home to about 3,000 fisherfolk of Norman and Breton descent plus a small sampling of European-born French.
Terre-de-Haut, the principal island and government seat, sees most of the tourist action. In its main settlement of 1,500 known simply as Bourg, cafes, bistros and boutiques mingle unobtrusively with white, wood frame houses fronting a cerulean bay crowned by a dramatic Sugar Loaf outcropping. Just across the way lies yet another Saint, Ilet a Cabrit, and in the distance, towering La Soufriere on the BasseTerre wing of butterfly-shaped Guadeloupe.
According to historians, this dormant volcano played a major role in determining its neighbor's colonial destiny.
By trapping the region's rainfall for itself, La Soufriere left the rocky soil of Les Saintes with little water. As a result, none of the eight ever developed a plantation economy or the unhappy legacy of slavery which invariably accompanied it. Instead, its French settlers, who began arriving in the mid-1600s (after dispatching the Carib Indians), looked mainly to the sea for survival. Centuries later, fishing (augmented by tourism) still provides the principal source of income and island sailors still rank among the Caribbean's most courageous and skilled.
If fertile soil and abundant water supplies were lacking on Les Saintes, its strategic positioning overlooking the waterways between French Guadeloupe and the British colony of Dominica soon earned it the title of "Gibraltar of the West Indies."
Early on, a network of fortifications was erected on the principal islands and while most were razed during a subsequent British occupation, restored Fort Napoleon, on a hill above Terre-de-Naut, is a popular stop for sightseers. Its counterpart, Fort Josephine, the so-called "Key to Les Saintes," still languishes unattended on neighboring Ilet a Cabrit, but can be visited as well.
Historically speaking, the islands are remembered primarily as the scene of a fierce confrontation between French and British naval forces, the Battle of Les Saintes in 1782. Outmanned and outgunned, the French flotilla of 30 ships, commanded by Count de Grasse and Adm. Bougainville, went down to defeat at the hands of Adm. Rodney and his fleet of 37. But only decades later in 1816, the French took their revenge, recapturing Les Iles des Saintes.
Today, like Guadeloupe, Martinique, St. Barts and St. Martin, the archipelago is a full-fledged part of France.
But unlike its more sophisticated neighbors which boast highrises, casinos and discos, 4-mile by 2-mile Terre-de-Haut caters mainly to nature lovers seeking a tranquil retreat for a few uncomplicated days of swimming, sunning, diving and sailing. With only about two miles of paved road, the island is a paradise for walkers as well. They can start with the graceful, flower-fringed lanes of Bourg and work their way up to the sparser vegetation of higher reaches where crumbling lookout towers preside over spectacular views onto the surrounding Caribbean Sea.
Despite their label as "dry islands," an amazing variety of flowering plants and trees thrive on Les Saintes, especially in the carefully tended, fenced gardens around Bourg. Along the maze of walkways with their white, gingerbread homes trimmed in vibrant hues, dramatic flame trees vie for space and attention with elegant palm, exotic croton, delicate hibiscus blossoms and garnet-colored bougainvillea. Mango, banana, papaya, avocado, breadfruit and an assortment of hardy succulents also flourish in the archipelago's subtropical climate.
About a half hour walk outside town, from its vantage point atop one of Terre-de-Haut's highest hills, Fort Napoleon looks down onto the faded red roofs of Bourg and its scoop of a harbor where luxury yachts and sturdy fishing boats gently rock side by side. Today the reconstructed stone complex houses a small museum dedicated to island culture and modern painting. Guided tours include a visit to its exotic botanical gardens
filled with flowering cactus, aloe and other succulents and said to be unique in all the Antilles.
For more ambitious explorers, there's Le Chameau (The Camel) situated on Terre-de-Haut's southwest boundary and, at 1,000 feet, the archipelago's loftiest point. Topped by a ruined stone watchtower, where early French colonists scouted the arrival of both friend and foe, it offers breathtaking views of the seven other Saintes and is well worth the easy, two-hour round trip. Best times for most climbing expeditions are early mornings or late afternoons when the light turns buttery and temperatures are cool.
The higher elevations also afford a bird's eye view of hilly Terrede-Haut and the irregular shoreline that has made it a magnet for water sports enthusiasts and sun worshippers. Like a massive polywog trailing a three-pronged tail, the island is splayed along a northwest curve and scalloped by dozens of bays, inlets and capes superbly suited for swimming, scuba diving, snorkeling, water-skiing, wind-surfing and sailing. There's enough variety to keep most aficionados busy for weeks. Some beaches lie within a 10-minute walk while others are slightly farther afoot. Still more locales, including those on other Saintes, must be visited by boat.
Among the loveliest are the secluded Marigot and neighboring PomPiere Bays with their palm-fringed shorelines and translucent waters. Located on the secluded north coast, they are said to have once served as pirate lairs, but today are favorites with picnickers and swimmers. Sugar Loaf Beach, set in a shaded coconut grove adjacent to an immense sculpted pinnacle of the same name, provides the perfect setting for scuba diving, but is accessible only by sea. And for pure convenience, there are a number of town beaches including L'Anse du Bours, L'Anse du Pond Cure and Tete Rouge. Only inhospitable Grand Anse, just behind the airport and known for its strong undertow, is considered dangerous for swimmers.
But you don't even have to budge from Bourg to enjoy yourself on Les Saintes. Al fresco dining, browsing, shopping and people watching are a few of the diversions offered in this seaside hamlet where the pace is "tres relax." Homes, cafes and stores aside, there's little room for anything but the bare essentials on this diminutive enclave - a post office, city hall, French bakery, church, dispensary, "gendarmarie" and fire station not to mention dozens and dozens of fishing boats at anchor or beached beside assorted anchors, nets and motors.
As the visitor soon discovers throughout Les Saintes, life focuses on the sea and links between sailor and ship are so close that they share the same name, "saintois". Early risers and insomniacs can watch local fishermen set out each morning from Bourg in search of the day's catch. From far off shore and in surrounding channel waters, they bring back bonita, tuna, conch, snapper and rock lobster plus a host of other varieties with names like "les z'oeils-de-boeuf" (cow eyes), "les z'oreilles noires" (black ears) and "les grandes gueules" (big mouths).
All that fresh fish in combination with fine French and Creole culinary traditions makes for some memorable dining on Les Saintes. More than a dozen moderately priced restaurants offer fresh local specialities such as "blaff de poisson," a tasty fish stew, "crabes farcis," stuffed land crabs and "thon fume," delicious smoked tuna. For lighter fare, there's thin-crusted pizza, salads, long sandwiches made of fresh French bread and light-as-a-feather conch-filled turnovers. In their dessert version, made with sweet minced coconut, they're known as "tourment d'amour," the agony of love.
More about Les Saintes
Other spots to visit: A unique attraction on Terre-de-Haut and the pride of locals is the pink cemetery, situated between Bourg and Grand Anse Beach. In honor of sailors lost at sea, graves are covered in "lambis," cream-colored conch shells with delicate salmon interiors. Also worth a visit is the midmorning, open-air market in Bourg, with its food vendors. Of special interest, are the handwoven baskets sold be women merchants from neighboring Dominica. Terre-de-Bas, the archipelago's only other inhabited island, received day trippers, but has no hotel infrastructure. It is both smaller and greener than Terre-de-Haut and is home to some 1,500 farmers and fishermen. Its best beach is Grand Anse.
Documents: A valid passport or other proof of citizenship (such as a driver's license) and a return or ongoing plane ticket are requires.
Climate: The archipelago's dry climate is reputed to be among the world's healthiest. There are two seasons, December to April and July through November which receives more rainfall.
Watersports: Club Nautique des Saintes rents tanks, diving gear and offers lessons and diving excursions to neighboring reefs and grottos. Most hotels will also arrange such outings.
Getting around: Several minibuses are available for trips to the airport, hotels, beaches and for sightseeing jaunts to Fort Napoleon. Motor scooters and bikes are also for rent. Fishermen hire out to ferry visitors on sea expeditions.
Where to stay: Streamlined Village Creole, on the northeast point of the bay, has 22 duplex cottages in waterfront or garden settings. Amenities include air-conditioned bedrooms, kitchens, phones and maid service. Prices for a double room are about $116 to $180. Call Ghyslain Llaps at 590 99 53 83, fax 590 99 55 55 or write them at Pointe Coquelet, Terre-de-Haut, 97137, Les Saintes, FWI. Auberge Les Petits Saints aux Anacardiers is run by two French restaurateurs, Jean Paul Colas and Didier Spindler. Set in An orchard of papaya, cashew trees and mango, with extraordinary views onto the bay and its own swimming pool, this informal hostelry accommodates about 20 people in air-conditioned bedrooms. Dining is first-rate. Prices for a double room year-round range from $100 to $160 with breakfast. For information, write them at La Savane, 97137 Terre-de-Haut, Les Saintes, FWI or call 590 99 50 99 or fax 590 99 54 51. Other hotels include Bois Joli, Kanaoa, La Saintoise and Jeanne d'Arc.
Getting there: American Airlines services Guadeloupe via San Juan. Air Guadeloupe provides connections to Les Saintes. Ferryboats also serve the islands via regular shuttles. For further details write the French West Indies Tourist Board, 610 Fifth Ave. New York, NY, 10020 or call 900/990-0040.
Suzanne Murphy-Larronde is a free-lance travel writer based in San Juan, Puerto Rico.
by CNB