ROANOKE TIMES

                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: WEDNESDAY, November 8, 1995                   TAG: 9511080003
SECTION: EXTRA                    PAGE: 8   EDITION: METRO 
SOURCE: ALMENA HUGHES FOOD EDITOR
DATELINE:                                 LENGTH: Long


THANKSGIVING DOESN'T HAVE TO BE A TURKEY

The traditional bird may be traditionally dull for some diners, but you can put a better offer on the table

Thanksgiving is almost here, and guess who's coming to dinner: guests who don't eat turkey; heck, guests who don't even eat meat. Here are some suggestions to help you meet the extra challenge to holiday meal planning presented by these nontraditional eaters.

Diners who find turkey too dry might respond kindly to capon. The plump, surgically desexed roosters are known for their juicy flesh, especially their tender breast meat. The average bird, weighing between 6 and 9 pounds, will usually feed eight or more hungry people. Southern-style capon, such as in the following recipe, often is served with okra and tomatoes and fresh-baked baking powder biscuits on the side.

Diners who find turkey tiring might not be bored by boar. Exotic-meats purveyor Paul Grice, owner of Virginia's Buffalo Meats, says that boar is low in fat and cholesterol and high in protein. And, he says, his meats don't taste gamey because they are farm-raised. He can be reached at 362-1387.

However, if your meat came from the wild, U.S. Department of Agriculture nutritionists say its gamey flavor can easily be tamed by soaking the meat or poultry in a solution of either 1 Tbsp. salt or 1 cup vinegar per quart of cold water. Trim any visible fat, which may harbor the strong taste; use enough solution to cover the game completely and soak it overnight in the refrigerator. Discard the soaking solution before cooking.

The experts answering the USDA's meat and poultry hotline can answer most questions about traditional as well as out-of-the-ordinary foods. Call (800) 535-4555.

nDiners who don't relish a real wild pig might try a tame one, with a ``wild streak'' come by through the addition of horseradish. Pungent horseradish also makes an excellent base for some scene-stealing appetizers:

To taste, blend horseradish mustard and apricot preserves to create a delightful dip for bite-sized chunks of ham.

To taste, blend prepared horseradish with softened cream cheese and spread evenly on thin slices of roast beef. Wrap slices around crisp-tender asparagus spears or green beans and serve.

Fill celery stalks with a mixture of 1 cup mashed avocado and 3 Tbsp. prepared horseradish. Sprinkle with paprika and chill.

To 8 ounces of neufchatel cheese, add 2 Tbsp. minced onion, 1 Tbsp. prepared horseradish and 6 ounces canned crab meat. Blend and bake at 375,F for 15 minutes. Serve hot with crackers.

For more free recipes, write to the Horseradish Information Council, P.O. Box 720299, Atlanta, GA. 30358.

nDiners who forgo flesh entirely might turn on to tofu turkey or a tasty, tempting terrine.

Bryanna Clark Grogan, who's been teaching and writing about food for more than 20 years, acknowledges that her square turkey is the wrong shape. But she says its taste and texture are similar to the real thing, with a crispy skin of Chinese bean curds, which can be found in most Asian markets. Grogan's ``The (Almost) No Fat Holiday Cookbook'' ($12.95, Book Publishing Co.) offers an enticingly eclectic collection of meals from around the world for celebrations ranging from Christmas, Passover and 4th of July to Holi (Indian), Naw Ruz (Baha'i) and Wesak or Visakha Puja (Buddhist). Each section begins with a commentary about the holiday and its traditions. Plus Grogan includes insights on low-fat cooking techniques, nutrition and mail-order sources for specialty items. The only thing lacking in this fine vegetarian compendium is photos.

To order, call (615) 964-3571.

Photos are not lacking in Linda McCartney's ``Linda's Kitchen'' ($25.95, Bulfinch Press/Little, Brown and Company). In fact, they absolutely jump off the page, forever dispelling any myths about the banality of vegetarian fare.

McCartney, although a fine photographer in her own right, did not shoot the photos for her book. A vegetarian for more than 20 years, she is probably better known as a cookbook author and vegetarian-foods entrepreneur and best-known as the wife of Beatle Paul McCartney. Her 200 diverse, delicious, easy-to-fix recipes are enhanced by her personal reflections on experiences as a nonmeat eater as well as information on balancing proteins, reducing fat and planning menus.

Other nonmeat holiday ideas come from the American Institute for Cancer Research, which suggests roasted peppers as especially appealing appetizers. To roast, place whole peppers under a broiler or over hot coals and cook 2 to 3 minutes per side until the skin is blistered and charred all over. Carefully place peppers in a paper bag and let them steam for about 10 minutes to loosen the skin. Remove peppers from bag, peel away skin and discard the seeds. Slice peppers into strips and marinate for 20 to 30 minutes at room temperature in a mixture of 3 Tbsp. each of olive oil and lemon juice; 1/2 tsp. each of turmeric, coriander and cumin; and 1/4 tsp. salt.

People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals, a Washington, D.C.-based animal advocacy group, has a holiday recipe hotline at (800) 4-VEG-FOOD. Ocean Spray Cranberries (800) 662-3263 and Heinz, ``Festivity At Your Fingertips,'' Heinz Chili Sauce, P. O. Box 57, Pittsburgh, Pa. 15230, are also offering free entertaining ideas and recipes, including meatless ones.

Or, for firsthand sampling of some holiday-suitable food possibilities, attend the Virginia Vegetarian Society potluck at 6:30 p.m. Saturday at the Unitarian Universalist Church, Grandin Road and Brandon Avenue. Bring a favorite dish and copies of its recipe, if possible. Kids and nonvegetarians are welcome. A donation of $1 per adult helps cover the cost of beverages, building use and postage. For more information, call 380-2820.

Recipes for:

Roast capon with corn bread stuffing, southern style

Layered vegetable terrine

Tofu "Turkey" with bread or corn bread stuffing

Steamed cranberry pudding

Cranberry liquer sauce

Boar chops with scalloped potatoes

Horseradish and tomato-glazed pork tenderloin



 by CNB