Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: WEDNESDAY, November 15, 1995 TAG: 9511150012
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: 8 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: MARY JO SHANNON SPECIAL TO THE ROANOKE TIMES
DATELINE: LENGTH: Medium
One thing is certain where salt rising bread is concerned - you either love it or hate it - there is no in-between. My father and brothers complained about the smell and refused to try it. My mother and I devoured a loaf to the very last crumb and wished for more.
Perhaps its appeal was due in part to its temperamental nature. The more effort expended, and risk involved, the sweeter - or in this case, the sharper - your success. Made with wild yeast, salt rising bread required perfect conditions for the dough to sour and rise properly. And that meant a constant warm temperature.
This was easily achieved during hot summer days, when the old wood range kept the kitchen sweltering in daytime, and the temperature seldom dropped below 80 degrees at night. But on crisp fall days or in the chill of winter, some artificial way to maintain warmth over an extended period of time - at least 12 hours - was required.
That's where the "salt rising" comes in - not from salt added to the dough, but from salt heated on the stove and used to cradle the crock of starter. (Salt retains heat well; it was also heated and poured into a clean sock to provide a ``heating pad'' for an ear ache or for cold feet on a winter night!)
The baking process was a long one, usually begun once the dinner dishes were washed and put away. Potatoes were peeled, sliced as thinly as possible and placed inside a gallon milk crock. A couple of tablespoons of white cornmeal, some sugar and salt and a quart of boiling water were added to the crock. Cheesecloth was used to cover the crock. This kept out the flies but gave the wild yeast spores access to the brew. A heavy cloth or newspaper was wrapped around the sides to hold in the heat. Then the crock was placed on the stove, above the tank where water was heated for dishes and Saturday night baths.
Usually by morning a disagreeable smell and a bubbly appearance indicated that the starter was ready. The potato was removed and discarded, having done its job. The mixture was poured into a large bowl and milk, water, baking soda, shortening and a bit of salt were added to make a stiff dough. This was kneaded until smooth, and shaped into three plump loaves that you hoped would double inside their oiled pans. A hot summer day - or a pan of hot salt - hastened the process. But even with perfect conditions, you could expect to wait several hours before the creamy dough swelled sufficiently to make a springy loaf.
If all went well, by late afternoon the kitchen would be filled with the pungent smell of baking bread, browning in the 400 degree oven. A loaf of genuine salt rising bread, sliced and dripping with freshly churned butter, would grace the supper table, and two more were wrapped in waxed paper waiting to become breakfast toast or a smelly country ham sandwich.
When I hunger for a taste of yesterday, I get out my mother's recipe and try my luck. On cool autumn days or in winter, I put the starter in a pan of warm water on my electric warming tray, which keeps the temperature constant. When the loaves are ready, I cover them with a dish towel and they rest on a cake rack atop the warming tray. Sometimes I succeed!
SALT RISING BREAD
STARTER:
3 medium potatoes, peeled and sliced thin
1 tsp. sugar
3 Tbsp. corn meal
1 tsp. salt
4 cups boiling water
DOUGH:
Starter liquid
2 cups lukewarm milk
1 cup water
2 Tbsp. melted shortening
1/8 tsp. baking soda
1/8 tsp. salt
About 6 cups of flour
Put the starter ingredients in a crock, jar, or heavy bowl. Cover with cheesecloth and place in a warm place for at least 12 hours, until the water is bubbly and a strong odor is noticeable. Then remove the potatoes.
In a large bowl, add the starter, the milk, water, shortening, soda, salt and flour to make a dough stiff enough to knead. Knead until smooth and elastic. Form into three loaves. Place in well-oiled pans, cover and let rise in a warm place until doubled. Bake in a 400,F oven about 45 minutes.
by CNB