Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, November 19, 1995 TAG: 9511220006
SECTION: HOMES PAGE: D-1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: JOHN ARBOGAST
DATELINE: LENGTH: Medium
A: The following from an old copy of the booklet ``Scat'' by Garden Way Publishing is a suggestion for an emulsion with castor oil that is not very scientific since the quantity of water in the sprinkling can is not stated. "Make an emulsion of two parts castor oil and one part liquid detergent in the blender; add an equal amount of water; put two tablespoons of this solution in a sprinkling can of water and pour it over the area where the moles are at work."
Mole-Med is available from some garden outlets and catalogs that carry ``organic'' remedies.Q: In your Oct. 1 reply regarding control of grubs, you mentioned the control for milky disease spore. Where can this be purchased? Is it safe for properties with well water? Does it kill other insects? Can it be dangerous? K.R., Roanoke
A: As an extension agent, I usually have to remind folks who ask where to buy some garden, lawn or landscape product that the state doesn't allow me to be a shopping consultant. Check with garden centers and your favorite lawn supply catalogs that sell natural or organic products to find milky disease spore powder. I would think that this product, unless it is mixed or contaminated with something else, should be safe near wells, since the milky disease is specific only for the grubs of Japanese beetles and does not pose a danger to humans or other living organisms. This means that this product by itself will not kill other insects and should not be considered dangerous if directions are followed.
Q: I have been told that soil dipped out of a pond is ``dead'' and won't grow anything. Is this true? M.C., Dublin
A: Soil taken from a pond likely would not be suitable by itself for growing our usual gardens, lawns or landscapes since the pond soil particle sizes would be tiny clay or silt particles. They would not allow much soil space for air that is necessary for roots of these plants to thrive. Also, pond soil would have little if any living organic matter since living things, such as algae, that die in a pond sink to the bottom where they are covered with water and decay without air. That could be considered rotting rather than composting.
Q: I'd like to know how and when to plant the fruit (the seed looks like olive pits) of the Virginia Fringe Tree, botanic name Chioanthus virginicus. This beautiful little tree is kind of rare in our nurseries, and I have six fruit that I would like to see germinate and grow. R.P., Stuart
A: First, so that you won't be disappointed if this doesn't work, let me say that seed propagation of the Fringe Tree is very slow and potentially difficult for home horticulture folks. Those seeds can be sown outdoors in the fall in a protected flower bed or garden spot as you would sow any typical seed. The chilling of the soil as well as other natural soil changes will help those seeds to germinate but probably not until the "second spring." Or you could try to sow your six seeds indoors now by treating the seeds for the first month with a commercially used seed-softening product at room temperature, followed by one or two months in a jar in the refrigerator. Then sew them in potting soil following the same procedures you would use in starting seedlings indoors for the garden.
Send short questions about your lawn, garden, plants, or insects to Dear John, c/o the Roanoke Times, P. O. Box 2491, Roanoke, Va. 24010-2491. We need your mail, but this column can't reply to all letters. Those of wide appeal will be answered during the weeks THAT THE SUBJECT IS TIMELY. Personal replies cannot be given. PLEASE DON'T SEND STAMPS, STAMPED ENVELOPES, SAMPLES, OR PICTURES.
Gardener's checklist
(Jobs for the third week of November:)
To prevent winter sunscald, which might show up as bark splitting on newly planted shade and fruit trees, paint the tree trunk from the ground up to the lowest limbs with a white latex paint.
Provide winter wind protection for ``at-risk'' plants by making screens of pine boughs thrust into the ground, boards, snow fencing or burlap tacked to wooden frames; do not cover plants with plastic.
by CNB