ROANOKE TIMES
Copyright (c) 1996, Roanoke Times
DATE: Wednesday, February 28, 1996 TAG: 9602280039
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: 8 EDITION: METRO
COLUMN: THE WINE LIST
SOURCE: BETH CRITTENDEN
The world of wine is changing. France's Bordeaux region once reigned as king of the turf, but recent lousy vintages, and no apparent adjusting of price to reflect that, have diminished its reputation with American consumers. California's Napa Valley has had a recent string of superb vintage years, but Napa Valley wine prices are skyrocketing to reflect the intense demand for the wines. These tried and true regionals are becoming unattainable or not worth the price for many consumers. So, where do we go for good values in wine?
W.R. Tish, executive editor of Wine Enthusiast magazine, reported on trends to look beyond the "comfortable" wine regions for bargains.
"Anything California can do, someone else can do cheaper," he says. He points to Spain, Italy, lesser-known regions of France, even Hungary. For the bargain-hunting wine buyer, there are lots of options.
All French wine does not come from the better-known regions of Bordeaux and Burgundy. In fact, 50 percent of all French wine comes from vin de pays appellations.
"Vin de pays" simply means "country wine" and refers to areas outside the defined wine regions of France. In past decades, wine produced in these regions, particularly in the Southwest of France, was meant for local consumption only - the type of beverage you would purchase from the local bistro, filling up your own container to cart it home.
Over the years, producers realized people were drinking less, but better quality wine with more of an emphasis on regionally specific wines. The areas affected responded with tighter regulations and quality control, individual producers began to strive for higher quality, and the vin de pays became a bargain-hunter's dream with some great wine values. Some large and small producers to look for include Fortant de France, Chateau de Campuget, JC Boisset, La Vielle Ferme and Domaine de Gournier.
Of course, there continue to be good values from the better-known regions, but the value comes from the relative anonymity of the producers. Local wine retailers can help you become more familiar with the smaller producers. And as always in trying new wines, try a bottle first before deciding to buy a case.
Chile is a good wine-producing region with low land and production costs. As prices have climbed higher elsewhere, Chilean wine has increased in popularity and quality, for those with an eye for value. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are popular varietals in Chile as well as in the U.S. Even the best of the best can be found for under $10 a bottle. Some good bets on Chilean producers include Cousino-Macul, Santa Carolina and Santa Rita.
Washington and Oregon have become major players in the American wine scene, as value hunters look beyond California for domestic wine. Oregon began its wine industry in the '60s with Pinot Noir and today is known for some of the finest in the world. Oregon-produced Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Riesling and Gewurztraminer come mostly from the Willamette Valley. A few wineries in Southern Oregon (close to California) and the northeast part of the state (in the Columbia Valley) are producing luscious Merlots and Cabernets. Good value producers are Foris Vineyards, Adelsheim, Sokol Blosser and Oak Knoll.
Washington's wine region - thanks to irrigation from the Columbia and Yakima rivers - snakes throughout the Columbia Valley and Yakima Valley in the desert of this state. Washington has become known for the spicy, lush character of its red wines and the fresh, crisp character of its whites, emphasizing the fruit more than the heavy oak often found from California. Ste. Michelle, Columbia Crest, Hedges Cellars and Ste. Chapelle (on the Idaho side of the Washington-Idaho border) are good bets for great values.
Australia during the past 15 years has become one of the fastest-growing exporters of wine to the U.S. With a firm reputation for moderately priced, fresh and fruity Chardonnay, Australian wineries have been expanding on their repertoire with great full-bodied Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Semillon, and dessert and fortified wines. Labels to look for include Lindeman's, Penfolds, Seppelt, Rosemont and Yalumba.
High value producers are all over the world, in and out of famous wine regions. Popular wine magazines, like the Wine Spectator, Wine & Spirits, Wine Enthusiast and others often highlight best-buy wines, and local wine retailers offer great value wines from the wineries listed above as well as many, many others. You don't have to spend a lot of money to get a good wine. Go on a low-budget shopping spree and find out for yourself. Cheers!
Best Budget Buys
Cousino-Macul Antiguas Cabernet Sauvignon, 1992 (Chile)
LaVielle Ferme Rouge, 1992 (France)
Columbia Crest Merlot, 1993 (Washington)
Lindemans Chardonnay, Bin 65, 1995 (Australia)
Sokol Blosser Select Pinot Noir, 1993 (Oregon)
Stewart Cherry Hill Chardonnay, 1994 (Washington)
The Wine List runs monthly in the Extra section. Beth Crittenden is a local wine wholesaler as well as wine educator, writer and founder of the Roanoke Valley Wine Society, which usually meets for wine-tasting programs on fourth Thursdays. Call 992-3285.
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