ROANOKE TIMES
Copyright (c) 1996, Roanoke Times
DATE: Wednesday, March 6, 1996 TAG: 9603060033
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: 7 EDITION: METRO
NEW YORK - For almost a month, Food & Wine contributor Keith Blanchard and his wife, a professional cook, watched TV cooking shows and then prepared the recipes in their home kitchen.
The result: an evaluation of six television chefs, based on style, substance and ability to inform and entertain. According to the Blanchards:
Emeril Lagasse, ``The Essence of Emeril'' (TV Food Network), is TVFN's most engagin' Cajun. ``A consummate pro, Lagasse executes each dish from beginning to end, so if you can't make his recipes work, it's your own fault.''
Martin Yan, ``You Can Cook: The Best of China'' (public television), is the master magician. ``Yan's technical prowess makes his recipes look deceptively simple. If you can master his labor-intensive methods and find the exotic ingredients he uses, you'll be rewarded.''
Jeff Smith, ``The Frugal Gourmet'' (PBS), is the college professor of food. ``In his 20-plus years on TV, Smith has become more a food historian than a chef.''
Graham Kerr, ``Graham Kerr's Kitchen'' (The Learning Channel), is the preacher of low-fat gospel. ``An able teacher, Kerr explains absolutely everything, but he sometimes cuts too much fat from recipes, leaving them tasteless.''
Nathalie Dupree, ``Nathalie Dupree Cooks'' (PBS and TV Food Network), is the queen of klutz. ``Dupree delivers inspired combinations and clever substitutions. But watching her accidentally set a potholder on fire won't help you hone technique.''
Billy Hufnagle, ``Biker Billy Cooks With Fire'' (local cable stations from New York to Arizona), is great fun, unless you're a purist. ``Although Biker Billy's recipes work, his technique recalls Freddy Kruger of `A Nightmare on Elm Street.'''
Cooking & romance
VENTURA, Calif. - The `` Passionate Gourmet'' is a newsletter for home cooks that emphasizes romance and cooking.
Published six times a year, the newsletter is filled with recipes, recommendations for romantic hotels and resorts, cookbooks and other culinary newsletters with a romantic theme.
The newsletter ($12 for six issues) is edited by Gail Hobbs, author of ``Cookin' in Ventura.''
To order, send a $12 check or money order to: The Passionate Gourmet, 4360 E. Main St., Suite 129, Ventura, Calif. 93003.
LENGTH: Medium: 52 linesby CNB