ROANOKE TIMES
Copyright (c) 1996, Roanoke Times
DATE: Wednesday, March 13, 1996 TAG: 9603130022
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: 1 EDITION: METRO
DATELINE: CHESTER
SERIES: Taste of Virginia
SOURCE: JOELLE M. LIGON THE PROGRESS-INDEX
On a sloping hill in the southern part of Chesterfield County, under the shade of a lethargic willow, stands the Half Way House Restaurant.
Located on historic Jefferson Davis Highway, the restaurant serves a variety of culinary tastes and dietary needs. Though its location is busy, the restaurant is relaxed and unhurried. Dining here is like dipping into a warm bath and then putting on a big, fuzzy robe. It conveys the feeling of indulgence without pomp.
There is no emphasis on customer turnover. The owners do not ply stuffed diners with dessert trays to boost check averages.
The 40-seat dining room is in the basement of a three-story home. The house has been serving customers - on and off - for more than two centuries.
Built in 1760, the Half Way House was named for its location halfway between Richmond and Petersburg. In 1982, Rick and Sue Young bought the restaurant and started running it as if it had never closed.
The upscale feeling of the restaurant has remained. A few of the original features have survived, including an outbuilding that houses the kitchen, complete with authentic stone floors and hearth. The hearth is now on hand strictly for looks instead of function, while modern appliances replace cast iron pots and pans.
The Youngs like to say the menu has evolved naturally into what it is today.
Fare ranges from Virginia peanut soup to crawfish tail appetizers. Fresh, quality food is a priority for both chef Doug Haver and the owners. An unusual smoked salmon appetizer is made with the finest Scottish salmon and is served with capers, chopped egg, diced onion and the restaurant's own horseradish sauce. The combination of flavors and textures comes together to make a surprisingly light dish.
Not including daily specials, the most popular dinner entree is a filet mignon and shrimp combination. Angus beef is used in the filet mignon, and fried shrimp is prepared with only the freshest seafood.
Specialties keep patrons coming back to see what Haver has done to keep the menu lively. Seasonal items from veal to soft-shell crabs fit into the menu. Those with special dietary needs can be accommodated if the owners are notified in advance. Prices run from $17 to $30.
Desserts include fruit-based items in the spring and summer months. Regular dishes such as the peanut butter pie are made by a local baker. All other desserts are created and baked on the premises.
Fresh baked rolls and twice-baked potatoes are staples at the restaurant. Wheat rolls and cinnamon rolls are baked each day and served with meals.
The owners are modest about their interesting wine list. It boasts 30 to 35 wines that reflect international and local tastes. Wines from Australia, Chile and Virginia are offered. Prices range from $15 to $45.
During the warmer months, an herb garden flourishes in the space between the kitchen and the main building. Fresh herbs are picked daily and incorporated into the food.
The restaurant has private rooms for groups. Special menus can be prepared in advance. Haver can design a meal that has appetizers, entrees, desserts and wines that complement one another.
VIRGINIA PEANUT SOUP
1 pound peanut butter
1/4 pound butter
1 cup diced onions
1/3 cup flour
1 quart chicken broth (or more if soup is too thick)
3 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon white pepper
1/2 cup heavy cream
Melt the butter in a large saucepan. Add the onions and saute until clear. Incorporate the flour and cook for one minute. Slowly add the chicken broth and bring to a boil. Add the peanut butter, sugar, salt, pepper and cream. Add more chicken broth if soup is too thick for your liking. Keep hot until ready to serve. Serves 8.
Recipe supplied by restaurant; tested by members of the junior element of the Tidewater Chef's Association, American Culinary Federation and Johnson and Wales University College of Culinary Arts.
Name: The Half Way House Restaurant
Address: 10301 Jefferson Davis Highway, Richmond Phone: (804) 275-1760 Specialty: Traditional American favorites with continental specials Price range: Lunch $7-$15; dinner $17-$30 Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday; dinner 5:30 p.m. nightly
Reservations: Recommended Dress: Nice casual Payment: American Express, MasterCard, Diners Club, Discover Alcoholic beverages: Beer, wine and cocktails Nonsmoking section: On request Handicapped accessible: Yes; no ramps available, but can bring wheelchairs or walkers
Additional information: Banquet rooms available for private parties
LENGTH: Medium: 95 lines ILLUSTRATION: PHOTO: AP. Chef Doug Haver aims to keep the menu lively at theby CNBHalf Way House in Chesterfield County. color.