ROANOKE TIMES
Copyright (c) 1996, Roanoke Times
DATE: Sunday, March 17, 1996 TAG: 9603190003
SECTION: HOMES PAGE: D-1 EDITION: METRO
COLUMN: Dear John
SOURCE: JOHN ARBOGAST
The time for the spring vegetable garden is here. Once there is cooperation from Mother Nature and the garden soil is not too wet to prepare, working in the garden can become a productive activity that will extend for at least six months.
In the past, fertilizers from various sources have been used as vegetable-garden stimulators to get as much production from the garden as possible. In the '90s, however, it is critical to know that the nutrients in fertilizers and even manures that give us the lush, quick growth we want in our vegetable gardens can also contribute to pollution problems.
If we apply nutrients either at the wrong time, which basically means when the plants can't use the nutrients, or incorrectly, which includes applying excessively, the nutrients can move through the soil by leaching, erode with surface soil, or wash into storm drains in heavy rains. Fertilizers that are derived from either chemical or organic sources can become pollutants.
Most gardeners know that the three numbers given to identify the contents of complete fertilizers are percentages of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Nitrogen is known to leach, or wash through, most soils very readily, thus easily becoming a water pollutant. Accumulation of nitrogen in bodies of water can cause the water to turn green with algae growth. In ground water, buildup of nitrates can make well water unhealthy for human consumption.
Phosphorus does not leach as much as nitrogen, but phosphorus that is not used by the plant can contaminate water by attaching to soil particles and moving with the particles during erosion.
An important place to start in fertilizer management is to take soil tests at least every two or three years. The two critical things the soil test results tell are: the level of nutrients already in the soil and thus whether the need exists to apply more or to apply only certain types of fertilizers; and the pH of that soil, which controls the availability of nutrients to our plants anyway.
Q: How far can Ilex bushes be cut back? The bushes are about 4 feet cube. Will cutting all the green leaves off the sides and leaving the top as is kill the bush? Will the leaves again grow on the sides? The heavy snow has distorted them and major surgery is required. R.H.K., Moneta
A: Ilex plants, which are the hollies, can be cut back as much as desired in the early spring when new growth is ready to come out. The same can be done for most leafy plants that are healthy and not under stress.
Cutting the green leaves off the holly sides but not the top should be all right as long as the sides are somewhat tapered from narrower at the top and wider at the bottom. That way the upper branches don't shade the lower. New leaves should sprout on those pruned branches within about 14 days, but that side growth might not be vigorous if the top portions are not also pruned.
Q: I have an apple tree that produces heavily, but the fruit is always flawed, mostly because of insects or diseases. Can you give me a simple spray program that will help prevent this? If I spray anything on Monday and it rains on Wednesday, would I need to repeat the spray? Also, do you have a recipe for drying mint? Every time I've tried to dry it, the leaves turn brown and loose their flavor. C.S., Salem
A: The flowers and fruit of your apple tree should be protected from fungal diseases and insect pests by protective sprays from early pre-blossom time, which is usually when the new leaves are only about one-half inch long, until shortly before
harvest. Several pesticide manufacturers have one-package, general-purpose fungicide and insecticide mixtures on the market that prevent many but certainly not all diseases and pests that are known to be problems for the home orchardist. These mixtures should be used according to their label, of course, which likely includes recommendations for when sprays must be made to combat problems. This approach can be considered a simple spray program, although it requires a lot of work.
Generally, if a spray has time to dry completely on fruit and
leaves before rain, the spray should bind tightly and not easily washed off.
I got advice from other Extension staff on preserving flavor while drying mint. Extension Horticulture Technician Barbara Leach brought out the excellent point that in order for the mint to have good flavor later, it should be harvested before its condition peaks, which would likely be before it flowers. Extension Home
Economist Jean Vandergrift suggested that you freeze the mint in ice cubes or dry it in the microwave. Since space here doesn't allow going into details, explanation of making mint cubes or drying herbs in a microwave oven can be found in many books on herbs.
Send short questions about your lawn, garden, plants or insects to Dear John, c/o the Roanoke Times, P.O. Box 2491, Roanoke, Va. 24010-2491. We need your mail, but this column can't reply to all letters. Those of wide appeal will be answered during the weeks that the subject is timely. Personal replies cannot be given. Please don't send stamps, stamped envelopes, samples, or pictures.
Gardener's checklist
Jobs for the third week of March:
Don't guess at spring fertilizing; take soil tests.
Manage a bumpy lawn that has been home to many earthworms (remember, they're beneficial) by raking and reseeding appropriate spots and mowing high later when needed.
Prevent crabgrass from germinating in established lawns by application of a pre-emergent herbicide; please note that most pre-emergent herbicides are not to be used in areas where you will soon sow good grass seed.
John Arbogast is the agricultural and natural resources extension agent for Roanoke.
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