ROANOKE TIMES
Copyright (c) 1996, Roanoke Times
DATE: Sunday, March 24, 1996 TAG: 9603220016
SECTION: TRAVEL PAGE: G-8 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: JULIE RUTHERFORD SPECIAL TO THE ROANOKE TIMES
WHILE every area of North Carolina's Outer Banks is special, the tiny island of Ocracoke is the most enchanted. From the breathtaking Hatteras Inlet Ferry ride to the legend of Blackbeard, Ocracoke Island has everything to make your vacation magical.
According to some locals, known as ``Bankers,'' Blackbeard himself named the island when he screamed out in a rage, ``Oh cock, crow.'' More likely, ``Ocracoke" derived from the name of a neighboring Indian tribe called the Woccocons. First settled by Europeans in the 1500s, Ocracoke remained a busy fishing village from the late 16th century until the 1930s when the first bridge from the Outer Banks to mainland North Carolina was built. Ever since tourists have fallen in love with the unique history, relaxed atmosphere and beauty of Ocracoke Island.
Once you reach the Outer Banks, take N.C. 12 through Kitty Hawk, Nags Head and Hatteras to the Hatteras Inlet Ferry. Ferries run every 30 minutes to one hour and are free. Once you reach Ocracoke, continue on U.S. 12 toward Ocracoke Village. Seven miles down N.C. 12 on your way into town, make sure to stop at the Pony Pens. The Ocracoke ponies are descendants of Spanish mustangs brought to the island by the British in the late 1700s. While you can't ride the wild ones, the Seaside Stables farther down the road on the right offer beach rides during the summer.
At the end of N.C. 12 (only a few miles because the island's only 14 miles long!), quaint Ocracoke Village surrounds the glassy waters of Silver Lake harbor. Because parking is limited around this picturesque setting, finding that perfect room so you can ditch the car and set out on foot is essential. The village offers a wide variety of accommodations On the harbor, the Anchorage In is a moderately priced modern hotel with a beautiful view and a convenient waterfront pool. On the other side of the harbor near the lighthouse, the Pirates Quay Condo Hotel offers roomier digs for longer stays. Several bed and breakfast inns provide homespun accommodations. The Berkely Center and Country Inn is on the harbor, while Oscar's House and Eugenia's B&B are on N.C. 12 along with numerous other motels and inns. For something more eclectic, try Blackbeard's Lodge, just off N.C. 12 near the Pony Pasture.
Ocracoke's most infamous visitor, Edward Teach, otherwise known as Blackbeard, supposedly was beheaded in Ocracoke inlet the fall of 1778. Signs of Ocracoke's plundering past litter the island. Beside Blackbeard's Lodge, Teach's Hole Blackbeard Exhibit & Specialty Shop has a fascinating display on the notorious pirate and scads of unique maps, books and Blackbeard paraphernalia for sale. Along with the best crab cake sandwich in the world, the Jolly Roger Marina and Pub on Silver Lake Harbor offers a view of the reputed location of Blackbeard's sunken treasure. Float past Blackbeard's legendary aquatic haunts surrounding the island on an Ocracoke Adventures guided kayak tour (he supposedly hid out in a cove near Silver Lake now called Teach's Hole) or visit the previously inhabited Portsmouth Island on one of the many charter fishing boats. Who knows - you might come back with a few fish tales of your own!
If the big one got away, Ocracoke's restaurants will more than make up for your loss. For excellent fresh seafood, try the Island Inn Restaurant or Cafe Atlantic. The Back Porch offers a comfortable family atmosphere while Howard's Pub serves up Raw Bar items with style. Howard's is also the local nighttime hot spot. If you're not in the mood for seafood, don't despair. Maria's Restaurant has many scrumptious Italian entrees.
Before going anywhere else, stop by the Visitor Center located beside the Ferry landing on Silver Lake Road. Friendly staff will provide you with brochures and information about the island. Right beside the visitors center, the 1942 Ocracoke Coast Guard Station gives weekly tours of its facilities. Across the street lies the Ocracoke Preservation Museum which contains unique and interesting displays on the history of Ocracoke and its inhabitants. The Ocracoke Preservation Society successfully had Ocracoke Village places on the list of the National Register of Historic Places in 1990.
Ocracoke was home to a small naval base during the Second World War. Allied merchant ships dodged German U-boats in the waters surrounding the island. Behind the Anchorage Inn, the British Cemetery honors British soldiers who died at Ocracoke in World War II. Island Artworks art gallery, featuring works by local artists, is on the same road heading back toward the harbor.
On your way to the historic Ocracoke Lighthouse across the harbor, leisurely browse through the numerous small shops lining Silver Lake Road.
Ocracoke's 16 miles of wilderness beach are a main attraction. Swimming, surfing, clamming, shelling, sailing and other water sports abound on its sandy shoals. Renowned for its sport fishing, Ocracoke's surf yields channel bass, pampano, trout, puppy drum, mackerel, flounder and many other tasty fish. Charter boats make regular sound, inlet and Gulf Stream fishing trips.
A bird watcher's paradise as well, many species of birds pass through Ocracoke on their way south including herons, indigo buntings, warblers and sandpipers. A nature trail winds through an ancient maritime forest and over sandy dunes to a large salt marsh on Pamlico Sound.
Whether on foot, riding a horse, peddling a bike or paddling a boat or kayak, Ocracoke's natural beauty is unsurpassed.
During the summer, Ocracoke's historic trolley offers visitors a glimpse of the island's past. This spring and summer, don't miss the Ocracoke British Cemetery to commemorate the 1942 sinking of British trawler Bedfordshire on May 10 and Ocracoke Sand Sculpture Contest and Independence Day Parade on July 4.
With a population of only 700, the ambience of Ocracoke is decidedly easygoing and catching. Whether you choose to wander down its back roads, search for indigo buntings, or chase down Blackbeard's ghost, Ocracoke is full of hidden treasures.
LENGTH: Long : 105 lines ILLUSTRATION: PHOTO: 1. A sailboat floats through the waters of Silver Lake,by CNBpast Ocracoke. 2. The Ocracoke ponies (above) are descendants of
Spanish mustangs brought to the island by the British in the late
1700s. 3. One of the island's drawing cards is 16 miles of
wilderness beach (below). color.