ROANOKE TIMES
Copyright (c) 1996, Roanoke Times
DATE: Wednesday, March 27, 1996 TAG: 9603270001
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: 1 EDITION: METRO
DATELINE: GREAT FALLS
SERIES: Taste of Virginia
SOURCE: The Associated Press
``L'Auberge Chez Francois'' means ``at the country home of Francois,'' and this lovely Virginia countryside restaurant reflects the charm and spirit of its chef and host, Francois Haeringer.
According to his son, Haeringer's goal has always been to ``operate a restaurant with a nice ambience and good honest food at affordable prices'' - a seemingly modest goal given the food, service and atmosphere of L'Auberge Chez Francois.
Monsieur Francois, as he is known to his restaurant staff and the thousands of diners who have sampled his cuisine in his 42 years as a Washington chef, is committed to serving nothing but the best. It's no wonder that the four star L'Auberge Chez Francois has been named Washington's Best Restaurant by Washington magazine every year for the past 13.
Haeringer was the first baby boy born in Obernai after the Alsatian town became part of France at the end of World War I. He has remained loyal to his French heritage despite having lived in the United States for almost 50 years.
At 16, Haeringer decided to become a chef and used his culinary talents to avoid being forced into the German army. He remembers preparing food for Mussolini, Goebbels and other Nazis during his service at the Four Seasons in Germany.
In 1948, Haeringer and wife Marie-Antoinette moved to Washington, where he worked under the supervision of his uncle at the Chevy Chase Club. Haeringer also worked at an Alaskan resort before returning to city life and a job as the chef at the Three Musketeers restaurant, just down the street from the White House.
Haeringer took over the restaurant in 1954, renamed it ``Chez Francois,'' and spent the next 20 years running one of the city's most famous French bistros.
The Claridge Hotel, which housed Chez Francois, was torn down in the early '70s. Instead of retiring, Haeringer decided to create an Auberge similar to what he had left behind in Alsace.
Many of Haeringer's customers thought he was crazy for moving to far away Great Falls in Fairfax County. Even Haeringer recounts that on his first visit to his L'Auberge, he thought people ``would be insane'' to drive down the hilly, winding road to the restaurant. But L'Auberge Chez Francois, which opened for business in 1976, was an overnight success.
Restoration of the former country store, antique shop and lumberyard took a year. The interior was gutted, and pieces from the Washington restaurant (the heavy wood front doors, antique stained glass, antique windows) and other items, along with family heirlooms and paintings of Haeringer's beloved Alsace, were moved to the new location.
There are three spacious yet cozy dining rooms. A grand fireplace graces the entrance of L'Auberge, and there's a courtyard in the back for outside dining. Tiny white lights add elegance to this beautiful flower-filled patio, and the background sounds of a small babbling fountain add to the restaurant's sense of peace and serenity.
The L'Auberge Chez Francois tradition is a family one. Haeringer's three sons help run the restaurant. Eldest son Jacques is a chef and author of ``The Chez Francois Cookbook.''
At a very youthful 76 years old, the legendary Monsieur Francois bounds around his kingdom, monitoring his 80-member staff. One staffer says that although Haeringer is not at the restaurant every hour it is open, he works every day and is ``definitely the boss.''
Haeringer is perhaps proudest of his four-star cuisine. Although the style is predominantly Alsatian, it features a few American classics. Herbs come straight from the gardens at L'Auberge. If the vegetables and fruit are not grown on the premises, you can be sure they are from a local farm.
Some dishes change seasonally, but the tried and true favorites are always available. Among the most popular is Le Saumon Souffle de l'Auberge, fresh salmon topped with a lobster mousse, wild mushrooms, shrimp and lobster sauce. A genuine Alsatian specialty, La Choucroute Royal Garnie a l'Alsacienne, is a sauerkraut, sausage, suckling pig, foie gras, goose confit, duck and pheasant dish. To accompany these treats, the wine cellar boasts several Alsatian spirits in addition to beer and liquor.
The prix fixe menu runs from $29-37.50 for an appetizer, salad, sorbet, main dish and dessert. And there's no question about it, L'Auberge is extremely popular. Saturday night reservations are required four weeks in advance.
Recipe for:
ENTRECOTE AU POIVRE ET ROQUEFORT
(PEPPERED STEAK WITH ROQUEFORT CHEESE)
Name: L'Auberge Chez Francois Address: Springvale Road, Great Falls Phone: (703) 759-3800 Specialty: Classic French cuisine Price range: Fixed menu runs $29-$37.50 Hours: Dinner is served Tuesday through Saturday starting at 5:30 p.m. and Sunday starting at 1:30 p.m.Reservations: required Payment: All major Alcoholic beverages: Extensive wine cellar, liquor and beer Non-smoking section: Yes Handicapped accessible: Yes
LENGTH: Medium: 96 lines ILLUSTRATION: PHOTO: AP. Francois Haeringer opened L'Auberge Chez Francois inby CNB1976. color.