ROANOKE TIMES
Copyright (c) 1996, Roanoke Times
DATE: Sunday, March 31, 1996 TAG: 9603290103
SECTION: TRAVEL PAGE: G-8 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: SUZANNE MURPHY-LARRONDE SPECIAL TO THE ROANOKE TIMES
To the Indians of pre-Hispanic Mexico, it was considered a powerful aphrodisiac and rarified essence reserved for royal consumption; to European cultures, it was briefly touted as an exotic cure-all before conquering discerning palates with its exquisite aroma and delicate taste.
Today, centuries later, the the vanilla bean still reigns as the world's most sought-after flavor enhancer and the indispensable ingredient in everything from ice cream to baked goods and soft drinks.
Vanilla, the cured fruit of a leafy, climbing orchid, is indigenous to several regions of tropical America, although its earliest commercial production began in the lowlands of what is today Veracruz state, on Mexico's sultry Gulf Coast. A thousand or more years before the arrival of Spanish "conquistadores," the Totonac Indians had already evolved sophisticated techniques for processing the rare "black flower" they called, "xanath." and were using it in religious rituals, perfumes and healing potions, according to Patricia Rain's "Vanilla Cookbook".
Aztec warriors subjugated the Totonac in 1450, exacting their tribute in the form of cured vanilla beans which were blended with chocolate to create a savory beverage enjoyed by members of Moctezuma's court. One popular recipe, a mix of powdered cocoa, ground corn, vanilla and other seasonings, may have been the version offered to Cortes on his fateful first visit to Tenochtitlan (today, Mexico City), shortly before its capture in 1520.
Cured pods later crossed the Atlantic where they were scrutinized for possible medicinal properties, but by the mid-1600s, vanilla's popularity as a flavor booster for chocolate had far surpassed all other uses, netting it growing numbers of well-heeled converts in both Mexico and Europe.
Today, Mexico's vanilla industry is centered primarily around Papantla, a thriving agricultural town in the fertile lowlands of northern Veracruz.
Mexico's vanilla boom, which began in the 1850s, brought wealth and international fame to tiny Papantla.
Visits to working vanilla plantations are but one of the attractions Papantla offers. Another is the chance to sample a bit of Totonac culture. One of seven tribes occupying Veracruz at the time of the Conquest, these resilient Indians still conserve their ancient tongue and singular mode of dress. Of their other surviving traditions none is more riveting than the dance of the "voladores" or human birds, a religious homage to nature. While most of today's performances are, admittedly aimed at the tourist trade, they are nonetheless death-defying for the four men who, anchored tenuously by ropes from a 100-foot-high pole, must swirl slowly to the ground in an upside down position, with arms flung open and only their toes to guide the descent.
Papantla, "the town that perfumes the world," marches to the special rhythms of its rural Mexican roots. The bench-filled "zocalo" or main plaza is an ideal spot for people-watching, browsing or just relaxing under the enveloping canopy of the "arboles del sueno," or dream trees. And while many of its colonial buildings have fallen victim to population explosions of the last 40 years, fine examples of the gracious, tile-roofed mansions built by powerful vanilla barons of yesteryear can still be seen. Also worth a look are its well-maintained covered market and the historical murals gracing downtown walls.
Vanilla and "voladores" aside, Papantla serves as an ideal base for visits to stunning El Tajin, the finest archaeological site of the upper Gulf Coast region. This sacred, pre-Hispanic city flourished between 800 and 1150 A.D. and incorporates within its boundaries nearly 200 buildings. Of the 17 ball courts found throughout the complex, the southern one stands out for its series of well-preserved, sandstone bas-reliefs depicting in detail the essential plays of an exalted ritual game that invariably ended in human sacrifice.
Following its decline, El Tajin slumbered for seven centuries under a dense jungle canopy, but was never abandoned. Totonac Indians deliberately hid its existence from colonizers while continuing to use its temples for religious rites. Finally in 1785, a Spanish officer stumbled across its now-most-famous structure, the intricately-fashioned Pyramid of the Niches. According to archaeologists, its construction was a last-ditch show of power and vitality by an enfeebled ruling class fighting for survival. Serious reconstruction of El Tajin began in the 1940s and continues to this day with several dozen buildings now restored. The complex also boasts a small museum, cafeteria, gift shop and modern restroom facilities.
If you plan to go:
Staying there: Papantla, located about 100 miles north of the state capital of Xalapa, provides the perfect base for visiting both vanilla plantations and the reconstructed ruins of El Tajin.
Getting there: Mexicana offers frequent daily flights to Mexico City from various U.S. gateways including Miami, Chicago, Los Angeles and New Jersey. Direct connections can be made from there via Aeromexico to Poza Rica, Veracruz, less than a half-hour drive from Papantla. For more information and reservations, call Mexicana 800/531-7921.
Plantation visits: Vanilla plantation excursions are handled through the Papantla Tourism Department and also can be combined with an easy, hourlong horseback ride to the ruins of El Tajin, through rolling hill country, with a return trip by car.
Voladores performances: Dances take place several times a day at El Tajin and on Sundays at Papantla's church, off the zocalo.
Food: Veracruz's regional cuisines, some of the finest in all Mexico, take much of their inspiration from early pre-Hispanic cultures. Huasteco Indian treats called "bocoles" are tiny tortillas stuffed with seafood, egg, or ham that are great for breakfast or snacking. Locally grown black beans are another specialty as well as seafood dishes prepared with snapper, lobster, prawns and crab. Local beer and home-grown coffee are other standouts. The unpretentious but tasty fare at La Terraza merits a try. Perched above the "zocalo," it boasts breezes and a view of the ever-changing social scene below.
Special events: Corpus Christi, Papantla's biggest annual event, is celebrated each June for about four days and features typical dances, a royal coronation, parades and regular performances by the "voladores."
A word about vanilla shopping
A lack of stringent labeling laws in Mexico has allowed synthetics to be sold as vanilla. To be sure you are buying the real thing, follow these tips: Never buy vanilla extract or beans from street vendors, anywhere, even if the product looks and smells like real vanilla. Reserve your purchases, instead, for plantations visits, bona fide grocery stores or for Papantla's old covered market, just steps from the "zocalo." There, small, well-maintained shops sell a variety of vanilla products including extract, beans and a delicious vanilla liqueur called Xanath made by Orlando Gaya Hijos. Always stick with registered brands like Gaya, McCormick and Mixin, respected names with high quality-control standards. You'll pay slightly higher prices, but you'll be getting your money's worth.
These same shops also offer vanilla perfume made in Japan, vanilla-oat soap from France and vanilla tea. A small percentage of Mexican vanilla beans are used in making the famous vanilla figurines for freshening drawers, closets or car interiors. Quality whole pods are woven in the form of baskets, animals, insects, flowers, crosses and even Papantla's famous "voladores." Or buy the whole beans and make your own extract or vanilla sugar.
LENGTH: Long : 138 lines ILLUSTRATION: PHOTO: SUZANNE MURPHY-LARRONDE. 1. The sacred pre-Hispanic cityby CNBof El Tajin flourished between 800 and 1150 A.D. and incorporates
nearly 200 buildings. Of the 17 ball courts found throughout the
complex, the southern one stands out for its series of
well-preserved, sandstone bas-reliefs depicting the essential plays
of an exalted ritual game that invariably ended in human sacrifice.
2. The earliest commercial production of vanilla, the cured fruit of
a leafy, climbing orchid, began in Veracruz state 3. The dance of
the "voladores" is performed by four men who, anchored by ropes from
a 100-foot-high pole, must swirl slowly to the
ground upside down, with arms flung open. color.