ROANOKE TIMES
Copyright (c) 1996, Roanoke Times
DATE: Thursday, April 4, 1996 TAG: 9604040031
SECTION: CURRENT PAGE: NRV-2 EDITION: NEW RIVER VALLEY
COLUMN: Hoein' & Growin'
SOURCE: DOTTI FOREMAN/NEW RIVER MASTER GARDENER ASSOCIATION
In the early spring, most gardeners look forward to pruning trees and shrubs. Warm days seem to call me to the yard and garden to prune.
I like to allow a shrub or tree to achieve its natural shape and size and only prune to encourage new growth or eliminate unwanted growth. Trees are dormant, making early spring a good time to prune. Deciduous trees have lost most or all of their leaves so it is easy to see what needs to be done.
Gardeners prune for a number of reasons. I've had my eye on a branch in an oak tree that is too low and blocks access to a nearby bench. Tree branches that hang over a house should be considered for possible removal. Dead branches that may pose a safety hazard should be pruned. In my yard, I found two trees growing too close together and will attempt to restore some order and discipline to improve their appearance.
John Malin's "The Essential Pruning Companion," 1992 by Trafalgar Square Publishing gives the definition of the verb "to prune" as being derived from the Old French "prounier," meaning to cut back the vine, and this became "prouyne" in Middle English. By the end of the 16th century "to prune" was to "lop off branches, boughs or shoots." According to Malin, the purpose of pruning trees and shrubs is:
1. To maintain a good "natural" shape by removing over-long or misshapen branches and to promote upward growth.
2. To keep the plant healthy by removal of diseased or dead wood.
3. To allow light and air to reach the center of the plant by removing weak or crowded shoots there, thus improving the quantity and quality of flowers.
4. To remove dead flowers as soon as they fade before seed formation begins
5. To promote replacement growth by mulching and feeding, especially when pruning has been severe.
6. For wall plants and some climbers, pruning is part of training to take advantage of the sun and extra heat reflects from the wall surface.
7. For fruit trees, the goal of pruning is to promote the formation of a framework of fruiting spurs and to maintain fruit production by selective pruning of trees and shrubs.
Regardless of the reasons for pruning a tree or shrub, it is important to properly remove an offending branch or branches. Small branches, 11/2 inches or less in diameter can be removed by pruning shears or loppers. Larger branches will probably require a pruning saw.
Avoid cutting branches flush with the trunk of the tree. Recent research has shown that flush cuts harm trees by opening them up to fungal and insect attack. Arborists recommend cutting branches back only as far as the branch collar, which is the raised or swollen area at the base of the branch where it joins the trunk. On most trees, this collar appears as a knob of concentric rings of bark. For each year of growth, the tree adds a new ring. The collar forms a protective barrier against insects and disease. The collar also promotes healing of the wound made when you prune. Even after you prune a branch, the collar will continue to grow.
The correct method of pruning a branch leaves a wound somewhat circular in shape. Make three cuts for each branch you remove. The first cut is made on the underside of the branch approximately six to eight inches out from the collar. Cut about 1/4 of the way through the branch. Make the second cut on the top side, slightly farther out than the undercut, cutting the branch through. Because of your first protective cut, the branch will fall without tearing away any bark. Finally, cut the remaining branch back to the collar. Don't leave a stub beyond the collar because it will only rot. Also, unless the tree is an oak, it's not necessary to paint the cut. Research shows that tree paint does little good, except in preventing oak wilt.
It's easy to prune most shrubs. Often they need only to have their dead, straggly and weak wood pruned for general maintenance. This can be done at any time of the year. It is also important to routinely check for and promptly remove abnormal or undesirable stems or branches that threaten a tree or shrub's life, such as an insect-infested or diseased growth. In all cases, cut back to healthy tissue. If you have difficulty deciding whether a limb is dead and should be removed, wait until the leaves start to emerge to prune shrubs, trees or vines. When leaves emerge, the dead wood will become obvious.
If you are unsure about the methods for pruning, check out a book from your local library. "The Reader's Digest Illustrated Guide of Gardening" has some good, sound advice and the illustrations make following their advice easy.
When you spy a branch that needs removing, just mark it with some bright paint so that you won't forget it - unless it poses and immediate problem. When winter returns next year and you're looking for an outside garden activity, your pruning job will be outlined for you.
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