ROANOKE TIMES
Copyright (c) 1996, Roanoke Times
DATE: Wednesday, May 15, 1996 TAG: 9605150029
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: 8 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: ALMENA HUGHES FOOD EDITOR
FOR PEOPLE WITH better places to spend time than in the kitchen, and better places to spend dollars than on high-priced meats, the slow cooker can be a real saver. For a minimal investment of preparation, the appliance yields tantalizing aromas; tender juicy meats from cheaper, tougher cuts; rich stocks from bones; and hot, wholesome meals, spanning soups to desserts.
Interest in the quarter-century-old ceramic pot-in-a-heater is escalating as busy, budget-conscious cooks strive for balance.
The prototype slow cooker was marketed in 1971 by The Rival Co., a Kansas City, Mo.-based organization that owns the registered trademark to the name Crock-Pots. After Rival bought out a small appliance company, the story goes, a home economist discovered a bean pot among the inventory, which was perfect for making stews, pot roasts, soups, mulled cider, warm cheese dips, goulash, cassoulet and steamed puddings.
People have been experimenting with slow cookers ever since.
"Anything that can be braised will do well in a slow cooker," offered Judith Ets-Hokin, owner and founder of HomeChef cooking schools in California.
Braising means to brown meat or vegetable pieces first in fat, then slowly cook in a small amount of liquid or sauce in a covered pan. It's slow-cooking's main point of contention. Some people say that the additional step defeats the whole easy-prep purpose of slow cooking. Others, such as Lou Seibert Pappas, author of the recently revised "Extra Special Crockery Pot Recipes" ($8.95, Nitty Gritty Cookbooks), and Rick Rogers, author of "Ready and Waiting" ($20, Hearst), disagree.
"Browning enhances the flavor immeasurably and is well worth the trouble," Pappas insists. Her book includes flambeed recipes and a couple of whole roast chickens, browned on all sides before slow cooking.
Browning also is more aesthetically appealing and better blends the flavors of garlic and onions. (Slow-cooked meats that aren't pre-browned tend to turn gray.)
Mable Hoffman, who recently revised and updated her 1975 classic, "Mable Hoffman's Crockery Cookery" ($14, HP Books), usually doesn't call for pre-browning. Nor, for that matter, does Rival.
Cindy Rawie, the company's home economist, said browning helps to remove excess fat from meat, but then so does removing excess marbling with a knife.
Slow cooking requires some experimentation and adjustments, Rawie said. For example, vegetables should be placed on the bottom in meat and vegetable combinations. Dried beans should always be soaked overnight or boiled 30 minutes and left to sit 11/2 hours before slow-cooking. If they will be slow-cooked in acidic or sugar mixtures, they should be boiled for an additional 10 minutes. Otherwise, they will harden, Rawie said. Green vegetables will retain their color better when added during the last hour or so of cooking; reset the pot's temperature to high.
Here are some other hints from Rival for adapting recipes and ingredients to slow cooking:
* Timing: If a standard recipe calls for baking or simmering 15-30 minutes, set the slow-cooker on low (4-8 hours) or on high (11/2-21/2 hours); 35-45 minutes translates to 6-10 hours on low or 3-4 hours on high; 50 minutes to 3 hours, slow-cook 8-18 hours on low or 4-6 hours on high. Most vegetables and meat combinations will take at least 8 hours on low. On low, it's OK if cooking goes on a few extra hours. To reduce cooking time, set on high the first 2 hours.
* Liquid: Cut down on the amount of liquid in the recipe; it won't cook down in the slow-cooker. To reduce liquid for a sauce or gravy at the end of cooking, turn pot to high and leave the lid off. Use quick-cooking tapioca for thickening, or make a paste with 1/3 cup cornstarch and 1/3 cup water or 3 tablespoons melted butter, pour into slow-cooker liquid and bring to a boil on A high. It's done when it boils.
* Milk products: Milk, cream, sour cream and yogurt should be added during the last hour of cooking. Save the gourmet cheese for oven-baked recipes; processed cheeses work best in the slow-cooker.
* Vegetables: You can saute before slow-cooking or not. Eggplant definitely needs to be sauteed or parboiled beforehand. Add fresh mushrooms, frozen or fresh peas or corn during the last hour of cooking. To prevent sliced potatoes from darkening, mix 1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar with 1 cup of water, immerse the potatoes and drain them.
* Pasta and rice: Pasta won't cook well in a slow-cooker. The cooker also does a poor job of cooking rice by itself. Rival suggests using long-grain converted rice for best results in all-day recipes calling for rice.
* Frozen foods: Small foods such as vegetables or shrimp may be added to a recipe. Add at least 1 cup of liquid before cooking large frozen foods such as meats.
Based on the inquiries she receives, Rawie said the most popular slow-cook dishes are pot roasts and briskets with vegetables. But callers of late also seem interested in nonred meats, particularly in slow cooking turkey breasts and vegetables. In response, Rival is developing a booklet of vegetable recipes and has just released "Crock-Pots Cooking Cuisine" ($6), which can be ordered by calling (800)767-6020. Recipes:8 POT ROAST WITH CREAMY MUSHROOM SAUCE
MISSION CHICKEN
SPLIT PEA AND CORN SOUP
APPLE-PEANUT CRUMBLE
PORTUGUESE SPICED BEEF STEW (Soupas)
VENETIAN CHICKEN
MARCO POLO SHORT RIBS
BRAISED LEEKS WITH DILL
LENGTH: Long : 109 lines ILLUSTRATION: PHOTO: NEWSDAY 1. Portuguese Spiced Beef Stew can be servedby CNBover noodles or chunks of bread. 2. Carrots and potatoes can be
added. color.