ROANOKE TIMES
Copyright (c) 1996, Roanoke Times
DATE: Friday, June 14, 1996 TAG: 9606140005
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: 1 EDITION: METRO
COLUMN: dining out
TYPE: RESTAURANT REVIEW
SOURCE: DOLORES KOSTELNI SPECIAL TO THE ROANOKE TIMES
Count me in if you're heading to Brambleton Barbecue. At the moment, it's my first choice for pork barbecue on a bun ($3.95). Lean, moist and tender, this pulled pork makes a fantastic sandwich. It's top-quality meat that's cooked to perfection, and the hint of natural smoke makes it all the better. This is real North Carolina barbecue.
A commercial supplier in North Carolina pit-cooks and smokes the meat. It comes to Roanoke twice a week by refrigerated truck. The first-rate sides and sauces, however, are freshly made on a daily basis in the restaurant kitchen. Bargain-priced at 75 cents each, the baked beans, cole slaw and potato salad taste like homemade and could make a meal on their own. The slaw is so good that it adds pizzazz to the sandwich without intruding on the pork's stardom. I savored every bite.
Add oomph by drizzling on one of the sauces, a tangy North Carolina vinegar, a vigorous South Carolina mustard, or the traditional sweet red. For those who can't leave well-enough alone, searing liquid fire lurks on the table in three slender bottles, and I offer fair warning about dripping that cool-looking green stuff on anything. Just a few drops will cause throat-clutching for days.
In a sandwich situation, the bun achieves importance, too. A five-inch, soft, golden brown roll unites all the separate units into one scrumptious barbecue entity. This supple roll does not fall apart even under the added dampness created by the slaw and sauce. Twice a week, Plantation Products in Salem bakes and delivers these rolls to Brambleton Barbecue.
The sampler plate (large $6.50, small $4.50) lets you choose two of the three barbecues. This gave me generously portioned mounds of beef and chicken plus the sides of cole slaw, baked beans and seasoned grilled bread. At first blush, this abundance looked like too much for me to eat, but I finished every morsel, in the line of duty.
The chicken barbecue is some of the best I've ever tasted. It is cooked and smoked to a turn right there on the premises. The beef, however lean and delicious, filled me up quickly and seemed better-suited for a cold winter's day.
Forget the ribs. I've tried the half-rack ($7.75) twice and, despite nicely charred, appealing appearances, they disappointed on all fronts. Separating the individual ribs from the solid slab required a lot of work and proved almost impossible. To add to my dissatisfaction, the ribs contained too much unchewable gristle.
According to owner Chip Moore, these ribs come in flash frozen and fully cooked. At the restaurant, they are rubbed with spices and then basted with a sauce during the final grilling. It is obvious that whatever cooking processes are used, the fat does not dissolve and cook off as it should to tenderize and flavor the ribs. Few foods equal the enjoyment (and mess) that comes from devouring a succulent serving of ribs. It should be easier than this.
Even if you don't have room for dessert, revel in a slice ($2) of one of the rich homemade pies. This downhome food demands to be topped off with sweetness and both the peanut butter concoction and the chocolate nut creation fill this necessity. The only requirements are for you to forget calories, cholesterol and weight. Remember what Scarlett said and think about those tomorrow.
Barbecue is the main draw here, and it is honest-to-goodness delicious. This, plus a sparkling clean, orderly restaurant, great tasting, freshly prepared sides, and a pleasant staff make coming to Brambleton Barbecue one of life's pleasures. |Brambleton Barbecue| |3203 Brambleton| |Ave. S.W.| |774-6776|
Hours: Monday through Thursday: 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday: 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Saturday: noon-10 p.m.
Beverages: soft drinks, beer, wine
Price range: $2.75-$11.75
Credit cards accepted: all major credit cards
Reservations required? no
Nonsmoking section? no
Handicapped-
accessible? no
Dining Out's evaluations of restaurant accessibility to the handicapped are conducted by the nonprofit Blue Ridge Independent Living Center.
LENGTH: Medium: 87 linesby CNB