ROANOKE TIMES
Copyright (c) 1996, Roanoke Times
DATE: Thursday, July 25, 1996 TAG: 9607250008
SECTION: CURRENT PAGE: NRV-2 EDITION: NEW RIVER VALLEY
COLUMN: Hoein' & Growin
SOURCE: DIANE RELF
By the middle of summer, lawn mowing has become a regular chore in many households as landscapers work to keep their design looking as they planted it.
There is a balance between blade growth and root growth for grasses. When cut infrequently, grasses develop extensive root systems, resulting in more of a pasture than a lawn.
Though roots are out of sight, they must not be forgotten because there is a connection between mowing and the root system. Most plants get water and nutrients through their roots. An adequate supply of nutrients for the plant depends on the size of the root system and how much soil is in actual contact with the roots.
When mowed frequently, the lower the blade of grass is cut, the more limited the root growth. Good mowing removes about one-third of the grass blade each time. For example, if you set your mower at 11/2 inches, you should mow the lawn when growth reaches 2 inches. Clippings are about 1/2-inch long and can be left on the lawn to decompose and add organic matter and nitrogen to the soil.
Recommended mowing heights for turfgrass:
Kentucky bluegrass: 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches
Tall fescue: 2 to 3 inches
Creeping red fescue: 2 to 3 inches
Perennial ryegrass: 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches
Bermuda grass: 1/2 to 1 inch
Zoysia grass: 3/4 to 1 inch
It is important to set the mower at the proper cutting height. If mowed too closely, root growth is slowed, reducing the lawn's tolerance to heat and drought.
For cool-season grasses, such as perennial ryegrass, you may want to select higher mowing heights during the summer months to reduce heat and water stress on the lawn.
LENGTH: Short : 50 linesby CNB