ROANOKE TIMES
Copyright (c) 1996, Roanoke Times
DATE: Friday, August 30, 1996 TAG: 9608300021
SECTION: BUSINESS PAGE: A-11 EDITION: METRO
DATELINE: REYKJAVIK, ICELAND
SOURCE: DIRK BEVERIDGE ASSOCIATED PRESS
1989 WAS THE LAST YEAR whaling even for scientific purposes was allowed in Iceland. That could change in a few months as that country's parliament decides whether to resume whaling, despite risks of economic sanctions from countries opposed to whaling.
Ulfar Eysteinsson lifts a huge block of jiggling pink meat onto a cutting board, delicately slices a thin piece - then with great gusto plops the raw whale into his mouth.
``We are trying to eat the best things the Earth can give us,'' Eysteinsson said. ``It's very tender. You cannot find the contre-filet of the beef so tender.''
Despite the fresh flavor, Eysteinsson said the meat has been frozen since 1989 - the last year Iceland permitted whaling for scientific purposes. But that could change in coming months as Iceland's parliament decides whether to resume whaling, despite risks of economic sanctions from countries opposed to whaling.
Eysteinsson grew up near a now-idle whale processing plant in Hafnarfjordur, and said he's doing his part to help Icelanders stay ready for the day when the whalers get back in business.
Years ago, he cut a mammoth deal with the wholesaler. He bought about 7 tons of meat, and he has about 3 frozen tons left.
``It's for people not to forget the taste,'' Eysteinsson said.
But changes in Iceland's no-whaling policy could be near.
The fisheries minister, Thorsteinn Palsson, plans this fall to present Iceland's parliament, the Althing, with a proposal for resumed whaling. Although the details have yet to be worked out, the idea is likely be warmly received by lawmakers.
``It's a question of when and not if,'' said Ari Edwald, a special assistant to the minister. ``I believe and certainly hope in the future we will have the opportunity to start whaling.''
If that happens, don't expect to see whale steaks at the local grocery store, however, said John Hoey, a biologist at the National Fisheries Institute, a U.S. seafood industry trade group in Arlington, Va. He doubted Icelanders would harvest enough whale to import any to the U.S. after meeting their own cravings. In addition, Hoey doubted Americans would develop a taste for whale, in part because of society's emotional fondness for the creature.
One who agrees is Diane Pleschner, who manages the California Seafood Council in Santa Barbara, Calif. "I can't imagine any restaurant here - at least mainstream white-table cuisine - could feature whale meat without a huge public outcry," she said.
Resumption of whaling would be tricky for Iceland. Although Iceland dropped out of the International Whaling Commission in 1992 and, therefore, can ignore its ban on whaling, any resumption of whaling carries the risks of economic sanctions from the United States and other countries that have taken a strong stance against the practice.
Iceland could conceivably follow the lead of Norway, which resumed whaling in 1993 but said it does so carefully so stocks are not depleted. Norway has faced many protests, but thus far no sanctions.
Iceland's whaling fleet is ready to go, with four big Norwegian-made hunting boats idled in Reykjavik harbor and a few smaller boats scattered elsewhere around the island. The ships in Reykjavik are topped by the old crow's nest lookouts but the harpoon guns have been removed from the bow and placed in storage.
If they sail again, not all Icelandic mouths will be watering.
``I don't know why they're fighting over this whale,'' says Saerun Sigurdardottir. There's no way she'd ever put whale on the menu at the Grillhusio Tryggvagotu restaurant that she helps to run, with an emphasis on burgers, guacamole, beer and Americana.
``It is very dry and has this wild taste - not this pure taste like lamb or beef,'' Sigurdardottir said. ``I remember as a kid, Mama used to serve it to us once a month, and she had to hide it in all this sauce and vegetables and cut it in little pieces.''
Despite the ban, whale meat is not hard to find in Reykjavik.
Many Icelanders say with a nod and a wink that whale ends up on the market because of ``accidents,'' such as small ones landing in fishing nets. Some retailers put up special signs to show they have whale for sale.
At one neighborhood ``fiskbudin,'' or fish market, a visitor asked for whale. The proprietor promptly pulled out a small darkish slab from the freezer - at 490 kronur a kilogram (about $3.32 per pound).
That's four or five times the price Gier Luduksson paid when the whalers were still in business. His wife, Gudrun Bjaradottir, used to soak the whale meat in milk, and Luduksson would fry it in a pan with onions.
They want the whalers back at sea.
``It's only a matter of politics,'' Luduksson said, while out on an evening walk on the dock, next to the old whaling boats. ``Everybody's ready.''
Staff writer Jeff Sturgeon contributed to this story.
LENGTH: Medium: 96 lines ILLUSTRATION: PHOTO: AP. Ulfar Eysteinsson, proprietor of the Thrir Frakkarby CNBrestaurant in Reykjavik, Iceland, is encouraged by talking of
renewed whaling. Years ago, a deal with the wholesaler left him with
about 7 tons of meat, and he has about 3 frozen tons left. But some
Iceland citizens who think little of the taste of whale meat, say
the push to legalize whaling is misguided.