ROANOKE TIMES
Copyright (c) 1996, Roanoke Times
DATE: Friday, September 20, 1996 TAG: 9609200082
SECTION: FALL HOME & LANDSCAPE PAGE: 10 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: BETH DAY PASHLEY STAFF WRITER
Winter will be here sooner than you think: You have a few months to get your house ready for cold weather, snow and ice.
``Winterizing is annual and weatherizing is permanent,'' said Steve Elder, of Roanoke HomeChek, certified home inspector and contractor. ``Once you weatherize you shouldn't have to do it again.''
Elder said there are several things you can do to get your house in shape for winter. Your efforts should pay off in the long run because weather damage can be expensive to repair. It's better to plan ahead and keep away damage from neglect. You'll probably be glad you did next spring.
Here are some annual winterizing steps to take:
* Put up storm windows or simply lower the glass section of your triple-track storm windows.
* Turn off the inside shut-off valve to the outside hose bibbs/bibs; open the outside handle to let water drain out of the pipe and unhook the hose.
* Make sure gutters are clean (in late November after the last leaves fall) because a clogged gutter can contribute to ice damming. Gutters should be cleaned at least twice a year - more often if you live near oak trees.
* Make sure the gutter is firmly secured to the fascia board and slopes towards the downspout. Also, make sure the downspout directs the water away from the foundation. This can be done by affixing a corrugated black vinyl extension to the end of the downspout. Check the downspouts as well as the gutters for obstructions.
* Wrap water pipes with slit foam pipe insulation if you think they might freeze.
* Sweep the wood stove flue to get rid of soot and creosote.
* Change filters in heating systems.
* Have the oil burner serviced.
* Remove window air-conditioners, clean, drain and put them away. If you can't get them out of windows, remove the front cover, pack it with insulation then weatherstrip around the unit. Wrap the outside with a piece of plastic or tarp.
* If you have pull-down stairs to your attic, a lot of air can leak into the attic. Put batts of insulations over the stairs.
* If you have a whole house fan, disable it for the winter and put batts of insulation over it for the winter.
If you have some money to spend for permanent changes ``the single most important thing to do is insulate the attic,'' said Elder.
There are numerous ways to tighten your home. They include:
* Improve the weather-stripping around exterior doors.
* Seal the gaps around basement exterior door frames with foam insulation (check those steel frame basement windows, too).
* Replace exterior door thresholds that no longer seal properly.
* Install ready-made insulation strips under outlet and switch covers on exterior walls.
* Make sure that the window and door trim on exterior walls is properly caulked.
* Glue a batt of insulation on the top side of your attic access hatch and install foam weather-stripping around its edges.
* Seal around any exhaust fan or recessed lighting fixtures in the upper-story ceiling.
* Insulate the crack between the sole plate and the top of the foundation with foam insulation. Just run a bead of foam insulation at the junction of the sole plate and foundation to prevent air leakage.
* Caulk the gaps between the floor and the baseboard or shoe molding along exterior walls. Caulking is especially important near radiators, as the weight of the radiator usually causes the floor joist underneath to deflect, opening gaps as wide as a quarter of an inch. If the floor and molding are stained rather than painted, use a clear silicon that will not show.
* If you have old double-hung windows with no storms, you can also put rope caulk at the joint where the upper and lower sash meet and at the window sill. Rope caulk will remove easily in the spring when you're ready to open the window again.
It is important to think about heating system maintenance now - before cold weather comes and servicemen get busy. First, check the oil burner service to make sure it is working.
``The burner is the most finicky item,'' Elder said. ``Have the oil line filter changed, replace the nozzle, make sure the electrodes are properly gapped and clean the boiler and boiler tubes.''
If your furnace is oil-fired ``make sure you're on `automatic delivery' with a fuel company,'' Elder said. ``If your house freezes and your boiler breaks because you ran out of oil, it is not on you.'' It's the job of the oil company to keep your tank full. At the end of the season, be sure to have your tank filled with oil. If not, the air in the tank can cause condensation inside.
If you have a gas furnace or gas-fired furnace, have it inspected every two or three years. A heat pump should be serviced at least once a year.
Have your fireplace flue checked every three to four years.
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