ROANOKE TIMES
Copyright (c) 1996, Roanoke Times
DATE: Friday, September 27, 1996 TAG: 9609270031
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: 1 EDITION: METRO
COLUMN: Dining Out
SOURCE: DOLORES KOSTELNI
When Vicki and Demos Tsiakos bought Paul's Restaurant in 1977, they were the third owners who were continuing a downtown Roanoke tradition that had begun in 1948.
The Tsiakoses, who were newly arrived from Athens, Greece, knew that the small cafe had established a reputation for value, quick service, and simple, fresh preparations. This presented no problem for them. To this day, Paul's Restaurant still turns out high-quality food at gratifyingly moderate prices.
And the greatest feat of all is getting the noon business crowd in the door and out again in a magical 30 to 40 minutes without anyone feeling rushed. No matter how full the place gets, service remains remarkably efficient and congenial.
It seems that everyone stops at Paul's for lunch. Located just a half block up Franklin Road off Jefferson Street, the comfortable, square dining room can really get packed at midday. For those who don't want to vie for a table or booth, Paul's provides dependable takeout.
At 2 p.m., when the downtown crowd has cleared out and returned to work, the afternoon regulars come in for their food and fellowship. On the day I was there, different groups and singles sat at separate tables, speaking back and forth among themselves and the restaurant staff, with everyone apparently knowing everybody else.
Paul's two-page menu offers the familiar salads, sandwiches, hoagies, burgers and plate lunches we all like. What makes these different, is that however often you go to Paul's and whatever you order, the dishes are consistently fresh and well prepared.
Salads sparkle. I've ordered five salads and each one is just what I've wanted. They're big and served spread out and piled up on a 10-inch oval plate. Not ever has there been a brown-tinged piece of lettuce.
The grilled chicken salad ($3.35) comes with warm, grilled pita triangles and features marinated breast of chicken pieces scattered over a pile of lettuce, tomatoes, red onion slices and knobs of feta cheese.
The original Greek salad ($3.45) features feta cheese, pepperoncini, black olives and tomatoes decoratively placed atop a pile of lettuce. It's delicious with the oregano-spiked special house dressing.
On the days I desired tuna, the Greek Island salad ($3.45) pleased me to no end.
For Paul's cheese omelet ($3.05) I'd travel across town. It's a light, folded and golden affair with a pocket of smooth melted cheddar in every bite. It comes with wonderful hand-cut home fries, plus tomato wedges, and buttered toast.
Pita wraps ($2.76) are luscious, neatly rolled sandwiches that arrive in their own wrapper. My favorite is the juicy tuna salad, but the seasoned lettuce, tomato and cheese-filled vegetarian pita runs a close second.
Plate lunches are every bit as appealing as the old-timey blue-plate specials. I've enjoyed the crisply cooked crab cakes ($3.64) with french fries and crunchy cole slaw as well as two grilled pork chops ($3.91) with homemade mashed potatoes and apple sauce.
When one of my companions decided to have all "sides" for lunch, she ordered cottage cheese, cole slaw, and green beans with a large, fluffy biscuit. She enthusiastically consumed it all. At 92 cents apiece, these sides are the best buys in town.
Desserts consist of pies and cakes, all homemade by Vicki Tsiakos and I recommend any of the pound cakes You will receive an old-fashioned high moist slice with a good close crumb that goes well with a cup of their coffee (60 cents).
On the front of Paul's, a burgundy and white striped awning hangs over the facade that is painted the same colors. These adornments add a charm that is so pleasantly done, I wondered why I hadn't been to Paul's before this. The place has the kind of appeal that would attract me in any city, whether New York, San Francisco or Seattle. I'm happy Paul's is in downtown. It projects just the kind of all-round, cooperative spirit I like in a restaurant and it serves the solid, homey food I enjoy.
Paul's Restaurant 13 Franklin Road S.W., downtown Roanoke. Phone: 982-9583. Hours: Monday through Friday: 6 a.m.-7 p.m.; Saturday: 6 a.m.-2 p.m. Beverages: Soft drinks, juices, coffee, tea, beer. Prices: $1.25-$4.79. Credit cards? No. Reservations? Only for a large group. Non-smok ing section? No. Handicapped accessible? No.
LENGTH: Medium: 81 linesby CNB