ROANOKE TIMES 
                      Copyright (c) 1996, Roanoke Times

DATE: Sunday, October 6, 1996                TAG: 9610070117
SECTION: HOMES                    PAGE: D-1  EDITION: METRO 
COLUMN: dear john
SOURCE: JOHN ARBOGAST


WHEN THE PLANTS COME BACK INSIDE

An important concern regarding indoor plants is how to deal with pest problems that might have started while the plants were outside. Also, what may happen in the weeks ahead when they will have to endure less-than-ideal indoor conditions, such as reduced sunlight or stresses from temperatures or dry air.

Once a pest has been identified, control is the next step, but it is risky to both plants and inhabitants of a home or office, as well as illegal, to use a product labeled solely for outdoor use on plants indoors.

The pesticide label gives helpful information, such as which plants the pesticide can damage. Pesticides labeled for outdoor landscape use will not likely list interior plants that are sensitive to that product. An example is malathion, which is used to control aphids in the landscape, but when used to control aphids on a poinsettia could cause the poinsettia's leaves to turn brown on the edges and drop off.

There are pesticides specifically for indoor plants. These are sold as ready-to-use products at garden centers or in the horticulture section of department and hardware stores. Obviously, the selection in garden departments might be limited at this time of year.

The bottom line is that keeping indoor plants as vigorous as possible by providing proper sunlight, moisture and temperatures, plus other cultural and mechanical controls, should be the first line of defense. Pests seem more likely to occur on weak plants. Washing plants with a light soapy water spray and pruning badly infested parts are excellent control methods.

Q: Is there anything that will prevent blackspot on roses? I have 26 shrub roses, planted this year and last. I have sprayed every week, more frequently when it rained, since the first green sprout and still have blackspot. Also, is there anything that will remove the brown residue left on brick where climbing ivy attaches itself to the brick and mortar? We've tried a wire brush, but it didn't work well. Our house is old (circa 1800s), and the brick is handmade. The whole front of the house was covered with ivy. O.P., Rocky Mount

A: Blackspot prevention chiefly consists of sanitation, which means doing your best to remove all fallen spotted leaves and pruning infected cane portions that show discolored areas; proper spacing of new roses so that there can be adequate air circulation and breezes; and planting rose varieties that are resistant to blackspot disease.

Preventative spraying, as you did without success, should have worked. Consider the following: the fungicide you used was not a good selection, the recommended amount of product was not used, the addition of a product known as "a sticker" might have helped or alternating between two fungicide choices rather than the repeated use of one product exclusively might have shown some results.

Talk to a company or a know-ledgeable brick mason for advice regarding the ivy remains. I have thought that using a stiff brush with a bleach solution and a lot of time and hard work is the only way to remove ivy remains from brick.

Send short questions about your lawn, garden, plants or insects to Dear John, c/o The Roanoke Times, P.O. Box 2491, Roanoke, Va. 24010-2491. We need your mail, but this column can't reply to all letters. Those of wide appeal will be answered during the weeks that the subject is timely. Personal replies cannot be given. Please don't send stamps, stamped envelopes, samples, or pictures.

Plant give-away

Area residents are invited to bring a box or similar container for the plant give-away of annual flowers and a few perennials at the display gardens in the Community Arboretum at Virginia Western Community College, Winding Way Road and Colonial Avenue in Roanoke, on Thursday between 4 p.m. and 5:30 p.m.

Gardener's checklist

Jobs for early October:

Select a broadleaf weed killer that claims on its label to control problem weeds you have identified in your established bluegrass or fescue lawn and make application to those weedy spots now.

Wait until a killing frost hits your dahlias before you cut them, let them dry and dig the roots for winter storage.

Pest- and disease-free annual flower and vegetable plants that are pulled up after they serve their purpose make excellent nutrient-rich additions to the compost pile. Faster composting occurs if large size pieces are cut or shredded.

Maintain a 2-inch to 2 1/2-inch thick layer of organic mulch in the landscape, but don't apply deep winter mulch until the ground is well chilled in late fall.


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by CNB