ROANOKE TIMES
Copyright (c) 1996, Roanoke Times
DATE: Sunday, October 20, 1996 TAG: 9610180008
SECTION: TRAVEL PAGE: 6 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: SUZANNE MURPHY-LARRONDE SPECIAL TO THE ROANOKE TIMES
ON his first voyage to the Americas in 1492, Columbus described it as "the most beautiful land human eyes have ever seen" and in that sense at least, there's not very much that has changed about the Amber Coast, a booming resort area located along the Dominican Republic's lush northern boundaries. Today, even the most jaded of travelers would be hard pressed to find another Caribbean locale to equal its stunning natural beauties.
These days, most activity around the Amber Coast, (the name it was given by Italian expatriates in the 1960s), is centered around Playa Dorada, an ivory crescent of beach bathed by the Atlantic and fanned by cooling tradewinds. Built on an old sugarcane plantation, this self-contained, meticulously landscaped complex boasts a string of fine hotels, restaurants and shops plus health spas and watersports facilities, even riding stables and a Robert Trent Jones-designed 18-hole golf course. Best of all, the area is served by its own international airport, just a 15-minute drive away.
With their every vacation need catered to, guests can easily and effortlessly spend an entire visit within the confines of this resort community, but there are lots of other spots to see and enjoy around this region where the European chapter of the Caribbean history began.
Just down the road to the west, the busy Victorian town of Puerto Plata, beckons with its welcoming central square and gingerbread houses.
Columbus first visited the fine natural harbor of Puerto Plata on his second discovery voyage of 1493, naming it for its luminous, silvery waters. Only later in the early 1500s was the town founded, following two unsuccessful attempts at establishing a New World base at the coastal sites of La Navidad and La Isabela. During its colonial period the port became a major stopover for booty-ladened galleons bound for Spain..
A favorite on the visitor circuit is 2,500-foot Mount Isabel de Torres crowned by a statue of Christ. At the summit, reached by a short cable car ride, are spectacular views onto the harbor and surrounding plains and beach-front, the famous Amber Coast. In fact, the Dominican Republic is the only Caribbean locale that can claim deposits of this semiprecious stone derived from pine sap petrified millions of years ago.
Back down at sea level shoppers can get a first-hand look at the real thing by visiting the Museum of Dominican Amber, located in a graciously restored colonial mansion in the heart of Puerto Plata. There are guided tours in English and several showrooms with a large assortment of jewelry, all featuring amber as their main attraction and all on sale. Tones range from rare blue varieties to ruby red, lemon, black, caramel and clear white.
Larimar, another semiprecious stone that is unique to the Dominican Republic, is also found on display at the museum. It is often compared to American turquoise and has a distinctive light blue color. While shopping, keep in mind that many gift stores in the Puerto Plata area are open continuously from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., but some groceries and pharmacies close at noon and reopen from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m., in accordance with old Spanish traditions.
For more roamings, take to the open road (rental cars are readily available) for a look at the abundantly beautiful Dominican countryside with its sugarcane, coffee and cacao plantations. Head for the lovely seaside settlement of Sosua about 12 miles to the northeast of Puerto Plata and be sure to bring your bathing suit for a dip along the sheltered beach a short distance from downtown. It is considered one of the island's finest. Stop along the way at a roadside stand for locally grown bounty such as bananas, mangos, papaya or pineapple to enjoy while driving.
Although still very young by Dominican standards, Sosua has gained itself worldwide fame as the country's most international small town. It was founded in 1940 by German and Austrian settlers of Jewish extraction who were offered refuge from the horrors of Nazi persecution at the invitation of dictator Rafael Trujillo. About 600 people immigrated to the region and over the next several decades these former city dwellers dedicated themselves to agricultural pursuits and dairy farming. Today, the cheeses and smoked meats exported from their still-flourishing cooperatives are considered to be among the island's finest.
A tranquil community with a variety of hotels, guest houses, restaurants and boutiques, Sosua is the perfect spot for leisurely browsing or lounging in an outdoor cafe. And while only a handful of the original founding families remain today, this scenic spot has continued to grow and prosper, a favorite vacation and retirement retreat with prosperous Dominicans, as well as Canadians and Europeans. Real estate here, it goes without saying, is booming as well.
Next, continue on up the coast another 10 miles to the watersports mecca of Cabarete. This small seaside town with its three-mile-long beach is yet another place along this verdant coastline that has earned itself an international reputation, in this instance, as one of the finest windsurfing locales in the world. Fully equipped rental centers have sprung up here and there catering to aficionados of this popular pastime.
Still farther to the east, visit Rio San Juan to explore the famous Gri-Gri Lagoon, a wildlife refuge for tropical and migrant birds hidden in the folds of a dramatically rocky coastline. This unspoiled mangrove swamp, situated at the mouth of the Arroyo Grande River, is often compared to Florida's Everglades. If weather permits, the trip by wide-bottom motorboat continues on past the river for a look at La Cueva de has Golondrinas, a crystal-blue water grotto.
Continuing east along the coastline route takes the visitor past a string of breathtaking beaches including Caleton and Playa Grande with its fringe of coco palms and golden sands. This splendid setting now incorporates into its folds the new, 490-room Bahia Principe Hotel, but can still be enjoyed by the public as well in all its natural loveliness.
LENGTH: Long : 106 lines ILLUSTRATION: PHOTO: SUZANNE MURPHY-LARRONDE. 1. Vendors peddling tropicalby CNBfruits roam the streets of Puerto Plata. 2. From carved parrots
(above) 3. to semiprecious stones such as amber (left), a wide
assortment of shopping treasures awaits visitors to the northern
shores of the Dominican Republic. color. Graphic: Map. color.