ROANOKE TIMES
Copyright (c) 1996, Roanoke Times
DATE: Wednesday, October 23, 1996 TAG: 9610230029
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: 8 EDITION: METRO
COLUMN: The Wine List
SOURCE: BETH CRITTENDEN
New wines and new grape varieties continue to emerge from around the world as the interest in premium wines continues to grow. New wineries are popping up in California as well as many other states, and U.S. importers continue to be on the lookout for new and different wines from Australia, France, Chile, Argentina, Italy, Spain, New Zealand and more.
As a wine wholesaler, I've recently been introduced to wines from more wine regions than I knew existed, receiving samples and literature from Lebanon, South Africa, Bulgaria - the list is endless.
Within the United States, a string of recent stellar vintages from California, coupled with the current demand for premium wines, has created a growing market for new and different products. The American entrepreneurial spirit has taken root, leading newcomers as well as old hands in the wine industry to try new techniques, experiment with new grape varieties and create new wines.
New and existing wineries continue to rely on tried-and-true grape varieties, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc. Lesser-known varieties such as Zinfandel, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc continue a strong showing in these wine glory years, but other new ones are coming forth.
For example, when is the last time you tried a Norton or Malbec? These are among the red grapes being experimented with these days.
Roanoke residents Jim and Debra Vascik have planted or will plant Syrah, Norton (a Virginia native grape), Alicante Bouchet and Sangiovese grape vines in their Valhalla vineyard. These four red grapes are gaining popularity with a small number of consumers for their specific and distinct qualities.
Syrah is the historic grape of France's Rhone Valley and, taking on the name Shiraz, the star grape of Australia's red wines. California wine makers are producing Syrah in varying styles, from light-bodied and fruity to heavier, concentrated rich red wines.
Virginia's Horton Vineyards has had success with the Syrah grape, creating a highly regarded, juicy wine. Petite Sirah, which is unrelated to Syrah, has been produced in California for years, but is becoming more widely recognized because of the wine boom.
Alicante Bouschet yields an inky black wine with considerable body and richness. It is usually used for blending for its color, but can occasionally be found bottled alone, producing a spicy, earthy wine with great aging potential.
Sangiovese is the principal grape of Italy's Tuscany region and is being grown with varying success in California and South America. Malbec, also popular in South America, makes a full-bodied, supple red wine from good producers.
Little-known white grape varieties making headway in the wine world include several clones of the Muscat grape, being grown successfully in California and Washington. Muscat Canelli, Orange Muscat, Black Muscat and Early Muscat are a few of the different grapes, each producing an extremely fragrant, perfumed wine with an abundance of exotic fruit characteristics. These are usually made sweet and sweeter, with California's Quady Winery producing some delicious Muscat dessert wines.
Malvasia Bianca can be made dry and crisp or very sweet. Both styles, and all those in between, benefit from the floral character of the grape. California's Wild Horse Winery makes a good example of the dry wine and Virginia's Barboursville Vineyards makes a late-harvest dessert Malvasia.
Viognier is being grown successfully in Virginia as well as California and the American interest has sparked an influx of Viogniers from France. A difficult grape to grow and harvest, Viognier has a distinct peach/apricot/honey character with an incredible richness. The rarities and difficulties tend to drive the bottle prices to around $20-$30 locally.
For those of us with an artistic bent, it is now possible to "drink in the essence of a Symphony" with Blossom Hill Winery's new wine made from the Symphony grape. Little used, but very interesting, the Symphony grape has been called a less-expensive Viognier alternative, with peach and apricot notes.
I'm an advocate of continuing to try something new - it's the only way to expand your knowledge and experience. With this in mind, I invite you to look for new wines and experiment. Don't be shy to ask a wine retailer for help, and enjoy your new-found treasures. Cheers!
New and notable:
Blossom Hill Symphony (Calif.) about $10 in 1.5 l
Barboursville Malvasia (Va.) about $15 in .375 ml
Wild Horse Malvasia Bianca (Calif.) about $14 in .750 ml
Quady Essensia, Orange Muscat (Calif.) $13 in .375 ml
Horton Vineyards Viognier (Va.) about $20 in .750 ml
Bogle Petite Sirah (Calif.) about $9 in .750 ml
Weinert Malbec (Argentina) about $14 in .750 ml
THE WINE LIST runs once a month in the Extra section. Beth Crittenden is a local wine wholesaler as well as wine educator, writer and founder of the Roanoke Valley Wine Society, which meets for wine-tasting programs on the fourth Thursday of each month. If you have a wine-related question, or would like more information on the society, call 992-3285.
LENGTH: Medium: 95 linesby CNB