ROANOKE TIMES
Copyright (c) 1996, Roanoke Times
DATE: Sunday, October 27, 1996 TAG: 9610290042
SECTION: HOMES PAGE: D-3 EDITION: METRO
COLUMN: hints for homeowners
SOURCE: STEVE ELDER
Levels of workmanship in home remodeling range from highly skilled to wood butchery. Interestingly enough, the particular level is not always a matter of whether an amateur or a professional did the job.
As a home inspector, I have seen some top-notch work done by amateurs. The pros, however, usually know what the rules are. This awareness is normally the distinguishing characteristic of professional work, and it is nowhere more evident than in remodeled basements.
Occasionally, I have wondered if some homeowners think that the rules change if you go below ground. In reality, however, people usually seem to want the same amenities they enjoy above ground. So, before you tackle that basement remodeling job, here is a litany of common basement remodeling errors. Go forth, and do not do likewise.
Dampness. First, make sure that your basement is dry. Do the usual outside work: clean the gutters, regrade the soil to slope away from the foundation and extend the downspouts. Make sure these measures are effective by waiting until a couple of heavy rains have occurred before beginning the project. It would be a shame to put serious money into furnishings and then discover that you may need a sump-pump system. Do not rely solely on interior wall coatings to solve a dampness problem: you can't build a dam out of a coat of paint.
Utilities. If you are going to spend the time and money to finish a basement, realize that it is a room just like any other room in the house. You should have heat, light and electricity, just like upstairs. There is not much point in doing it at all if you don't finish it to a certain liveable level.
Wiring.There should be one outlet every 12 feet on a finished wall and at least one per wall. Electrical work requires a permit, which you can get yourself if you are doing the work on your own home. If you don't know how, get a pro. If your present budget does not accommodate electrical work, it can be done late by means of surface applications such as Wiremold products, but concealed wiring generally looks better. (Tip: if you are planning to use the basement room as an office, put in a dedicated circuit for your computer.)
Heat. Make some provision for supplying heat to the finished area, either by tapping into the ductwork of an existing forced-air system or by adding a separate heat source. If you have a hot-water heating system, you may find it more cost effective to install a baseboard electric heater than to tap into your existing hot-water system. You might also check out the oil-filled electric baseboard heaters - they are safe and efficient.
Ventilation. Experts generally agree that having oxygen to breathe is a good idea. Make sure the basement windows are operable. If they are the old steel hopper-style windows, they are usually rusted shut or otherwise impossible to use, so consider replacing them with vinyl insulated-glass sliding windows. If there are no windows in the finished basement area, provide a fresh-air intake by ducting to the first floor area or to the outside (see my column a while back on indoor air pollution). One of the potentially deadliest situations I have ever encountered on a home inspection was a basement room with no windows, an extension cord supplying a multiple outlet and a kerosene heater. It moved me to leave a note for the occupants describing the risks of the situation.
Basement bath. If you are planning a basement bathroom, make sure that the bathroom outlet is ground-fault protected and that there is either mechanical or natural ventilation. This means either a window or an exhaust fan ducted to the outside (not merely to the rest of the basement). Bath ventilation has been a code requirement for decades, yet the number of basement bathrooms lacking proper ventilation defies belief. As far as the plumbing rough-in, fixture clearances and final connections are concerned, this is usually best left to a professional plumber. A permit is required.
Utility access. If you have to ask what it means, you should not be ``doing it yourself.'' One of the more common goofs in basement remodeling is covering up water valves. A main water shutoff valve (most houses have one) is a nice thing to have; it's even nicer when you can get to it in a plumbing emergency. Make sure you leave a water-valve access panel that is large enough to reach in to easily operate the valve. The same applies to the outside hose bibb shut-off valves. Also, make sure that the access cover for the electrical panel is large enough to remove the whole panel cover, not just to open the panel door. You will need to get to it at a later date if you are replacing a defective breaker or adding a circuit. Access also means being able to get at the water heater or the furnace in order to service or repair them. For example, there should be a minimum of 24 inches clearance in front of the furnace.
Space does not permit discussion of the uncommon basement remodeling mistakes. Just believe that they also exist. Remember, it is ultimately cheaper to do it right in the first place than to have to fix it later. If you decide to contract the job out, get a detailed estimate and written contract before you begin.
And don't forget the smoke detector.
Steve Elder is a Roanoke home inspector. Questions and comments may be sent to him in care of The Roanoke Times, P.O. Box 2491, Roanoke 24010-2491.
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