ROANOKE TIMES
Copyright (c) 1996, Roanoke Times
DATE: Friday, November 1, 1996 TAG: 9611010005
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: 1 EDITION: METRO
COLUMN: Dining Out
TYPE: RESTRAURANT REVIEW
SOURCE: DOLORES KOSTELNI SPECIAL TO THE ROANOKE TIMES
"Deluxe" is the one word that best describes Arzu.
One of the newest restaurants in the Roanoke City Market area, this splendid eatery features a combination of classic French and Turkish foods served in luxuriously decorated dining rooms - places of beauty, really, where silk swags gracefully outline the windows, crystal chandeliers sparkle and murals of the chef's hometown village in Turkey cover the walls.
Located in the same building that last housed Groucho's Comedy Club, Azur was opened in July by owner-chef Ihsan Demirci, who for nine years has owned and operated the popular Mediterranean Italian & Continental Cuisine restaurant, also on the City Market on Campbell Avenue.
He is continuing to run both restaurants.
The name, Arzu, translates from Turkish to mean passion and desire. Demirci, who came to America with his family from Turkey about a dozen years ago, named the restaurant after his 14 year-old daughter. But Arzu - the restaurant - could just as easily translate to mean class and character.
The menu offers an enormous variety of dishes, ranging from simple to complex. They are perfect examples of Turkish and French cuisines, Demirci's specialties. Be assured that everything is freshly prepared, cooked-to-order and of the highest quality.
Is it expensive? Not any more than you would pay at the other top-notch restaurants in our area.
There were some problems in the first few months Arzu was open with the slow service and interminable wait between courses. But the last time I was there a few weeks ago, the dishes were served with a reasonable spacing between courses. In fact, our entire time in the restaurant was only 90 minutes.
For starters, green shell mussels ($7.95) are jumbo, sweet and tender. Stuffed with butter, garlic and parsley, and blanketed in a silken white wine sauce, this richly flavored dish evokes memories of the past, when we devoured whatever we wanted to, with only thoughts of dining pleasure, not calories.
We enjoyed dipping the chef's pita bread into the sauce. Cut into quarters and redolent of spices, it provided a tasty nibble as we sipped on the house merlot ($4.50 per glass).
Unusual in every respect, the escargot ball ($7.95) is comprised of several small balls, each one encompassing a tiny snail infused with the heady flavors of garlic, butter, brandy and parsley. Another appetizer delight, the shiitaki and oyster mushroom saute ($6.95), presents an abundance of both mushrooms, seasoned with butter, shallots and garlic, bathed in a Madeira wine sauce.
Entrees are different and extraordinary. My favorite, grouper Provencal ($15.95) contains a hefty piece of this wonderful fish crowned with sauteed fresh spinach. It sits on a bed of chopped tomatoes, gently fused with a sherry cream wine sauce. It is thoroughly delectable.
Venison Ihsan style ($17.95) is a dish of merit. A luscious wild mushroom cream sauce envelopes slices of tender venison that have been lightly sauteed in butter. Although this entree is beautiful, the meat succulent and the sauce seductive, a heavy dose of salt almost ruined it.
Shrimp kebab ($16.95), a simple, fresh preparation of jumbo shrimp, whispers the flavors of its lemon, olive oil and Dijon mustard marinade. It arrives free from its cooking spear and is accompanied by bell pepper triangles and mushrooms.
Another kebab, the swordfish shish steak ($16.95), features moist, tender fish that has been marinated and charcoal-grilled to perfection.
All the entrees come attractively presented with side dishes of steamed green beans, lined up like skinny blades of grass and arranged next to an herb- and cheese-topped baked tomato half, and a rice ball wrapped in flaky puff pastry.
Between the appetizer and entree, salads of crunchy romaine lettuce mixed with feathery pieces of fennel fronds are served. During our first meal here, the heavy doses of dressing and Parmesan cheese were overwhelming. On subsequent visits, a moderate hand dressed the exemplary salads.
Many of the desserts have a definite link to Turkey and are homemade by Demirci, who originally was a pastry chef. There are honey-drenched kadief, flaky, nut-filled baklava and a lovely, smooth and soothing custard. Sweet delights that speak of France and the continent include a Black Forest cake and a cream-filled rum gateau.
A vast wine list makes it easy to select an outstanding bottle ($12-$48) to go with your meal. When you have a question, the maitre d' can steer you in the right direction. He is well-versed in all these 60 different wines, which come from France, Italy, California, Washington state, Virginia and Australia. Also available are champagnes from Spain, France and California ($21-$125), and Turkish beers.
Arzu has been open for just a few months, and it is difficult for a new kitchen to have all aspects of the operation working to perfection. Based on the improvements I've seen - and eaten - since July, these snags are virtually nonexistent today.
This new restaurant is a bright star on our dining horizon.
Arzu
213 Williamson Road S.E.
982-7160
Hours: Dinner only, Monday-Thursday, 4:30-10:30, and Friday and Saturday, 4:30-11:30
Beverages: Full bar
Price range: $10.95- $17.95
Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Diners Club
Reservations? Strongly suggested
Non-smoking section? Yes
Handicapped accessible? Yes
Dining Out's evaluation of a restaurant's accessibility to the handicapped is provided by the non-profit Blue Ridge Independent Living Center.
LENGTH: Long : 105 linesby CNB