ROANOKE TIMES
Copyright (c) 1996, Roanoke Times
DATE: Wednesday, November 20, 1996 TAG: 9611200019
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: 8 EDITION: METRO
COLUMN: DU JOUR
SOURCE: ALMENA HUGHES
I'd never heard of Arthur Whitaker when he telephoned me a couple of weeks ago with an interesting culinary proposition: If, like him, I'd always hated fruitcake - mainly because it's too fruity - he had something that I just might love. It was a fruitcake from a recipe that he developed and that he has been baking for the past 27 years, first as gifts for family and friends and then commercially since 1988. His version, adapted from his mother's recipe, which he didn't like, is more cake than fruit, and he wanted me to taste test it to see if I could be converted.
The "Rumfru Delight" package that came a few days later reflected Whitaker's professionalism and his admitted penchant for perfection. A red and silver mylar bag surrounded an elegant black and gold box, which, besides having aesthetic appeal, helped retain the moisture and prevent the crushing of a rectangular 28-ounce fruitcake swathed in cheesecloth and plastic.
The timing was good, too. Besides having a chance to form my own opinion, I'd be able to serve slices of the cake at a get together I'd planned for the weekend, which I knew would be attended by several of my fruitcake-disliking friends. I'd also be able to serve slices at a staff meeting, where my co-workers, who don't dislike any food, would be fruitcake-neutral and, as always, willing guinea pigs.
The cake's pinkish batter looked a little pale in comparison to most standard fruitcakes, and its chunks of bourbon-soaked fruits and nuts were comparatively small. But, then, it's the dark, heavy batter and big chunks of stuff that most fruitcake haters abhor, right?
As to its taste, Rumfru's light (for fruitcake) batter, well-balanced spice blend and robust rum flavor caused most of those who tasted it, including me, to tilt our heads to one side, raise our eyebrows, widen our eyes, purse our lips and proffer such profound comments as "Mmm, good"; "Hey, this isn't bad" and "I need another slice before I decide."
Die-hard fruitcake haters, like my one friend who literally fled the room when I unwrapped the Rumfru, will probably never be swayed from their aversion. But other people may find that fruitcake can be loved, or at least liked, after all. To order Whitaker' gourmet cakes, $23.95 (less with multiple-order discounts) plus shipping and handling, call (800) 399-CAKE.
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Fruitcake may be among the donations Nov. 27 at the Rescue Mission of Roanoke, as literally hundreds of pies and a few other baked goods are brought in by private citizens for the mission's Thanksgiving meal. The mission's director of development, Joy Sylvester-Johnson, said she's not sure how the tradition started and it's mostly a word-of-mouth thing, but on the day before Thanksgiving, long tables are set up in the mission's halls and before day's end, the staff is scrounging for space to store the baked bounty. Sylvester-Johnson surmised that the holidays just bring out people's giving streak.
Honeysuckle White recently gave the mission 100 turkeys, which will be served at Thanksgiving and throughout this and next year. The company also gave a few additional birds, which were used in a fun event at the mission on Nov. 13, where both time and turkey flew as three local chefs vied in a two-minute carving contest. When the blur of blades and bones cleared, Billy Raper of the Hotel Roanoke and Conference Center was fastest; Kevin Doss of the Patrick Henry Hotel had generated the most slices; and Mark McDermott of the Roanoke Airport Marriott Hotel had created the prettiest platter - each thereby earning a Golden Gobbler award for his handiwork.
The Honeysuckle White More to Share Turkey Carve-Off helped the mission kick off its annual Operation Drumstick drive, which helps raise its food budget. Prayer cards for the drive, which runs through Nov. 28, were inserted in the Nov. 2 edition of The Roanoke Times.
The carve-off was preceded by a turkey trivia quiz, conducted by Sylvester-Johnson. The approximately 75 attendees could win Honeysuckle White baseball-style caps for correct answers such as: a turkey is done when its internal temperature reaches 165,F; a 12-pound bird will feed about eight to 10 people; a 16-pound turkey should be cooked for about six hours at 225,F (although a Virginia Cooperative Extension agent countered that no meat should be cooked at less than 325,F because it takes too long to reach a high enough temperature to kill foodborne bacteria); and apple stuffing beats out both sage and cornbread as Virginian's favorite kind.
Mission Chief Executive Officer Lois Bettis recalled trying to feed about 50 people with two chickens during her first Thanksgiving working with the mission in 1948. This year, the mission anticipates feeding approximately 600 people for the holiday meal and about 300 people daily, Bettis said.
LENGTH: Medium: 85 lines ILLUSTRATION: PHOTO: Richard L. Dunston/Landmark. Art Whitaker's fruitcakesby CNBaren't passed around; they're eaten. color.