ROANOKE TIMES 
                      Copyright (c) 1996, Roanoke Times

DATE: Thursday, December 5, 1996             TAG: 9612050002
SECTION: CURRENT                  PAGE: NRV-2 EDITION: NEW RIVER VALLEY 
COLUMN: hoein' & growin
SOURCE: DIANE RELF 


RETHINKING YOUR TREE PLANTINGS

Major changes are needed in both the way we think about trees and the way we plant them. The American Forestry Association, in cooperation with the National Urban Forest Council, has drawn up new guidelines for how to plant a tree, and unless you have been reading a lot of research information, you will find many surprises.

Plant trees so roots have a chance to grow into the surrounding soil and produce healthy, vigorous branches, foliage and roots. Instead of a planting hole, make a large planting area that is wide, but not deep, with soil that is loose and accommodating for root growth. The larger the area, the better.

After selecting a suitable location, mark out a planting area five times the diameter of the planting ball. Use a rototiller or a shovel to loosen and mix the soil in this entire area to a depth of about 12 inches. In the center of the prepared area, dig a shallow hole to set the tree. The hole should allow the root ball to sit on solid ground rather than loose soil. Once the ball is set in the hole, its upper surface should be level with the existing soil. After the tree is properly situated, cut and remove the rope or wires holding the burlap in place and securing any part of the tree. Position the tree so it is perpendicular to the ground and the main stem is growing straight up.

Backfill around the root area, and gently pack the soil to prevent major air pockets, but it is a mistake to pack the soil too hard. Water can be used instead of your foot to help the soil settle and prevent overpacking. Rake the soil even over the entire area, and cover it with 2 to 4 inches of mulch - bark, wood chips, old sawdust, pine needles, leaf mold or the like. Some mulches decompose quickly and will have to be replenished once or twice a year. Maintaining the mulch layer carefully will improve tree growth substantially.

Some planting recommendations suggest mounding the soil at the outer edge of the planting ring to form a water-holding berm. The berm will help hold water, but it may also encourage the root growth to remain within the berm, close to the tree. The American Forestry Association does not recommend berms; mulch should hold the water adequately. An alternative if a berm is needed is to place it 6 inches beyond the planting ring to encourage wider root growth.

It is best not to stake the tree, but if wind is a problem or the tree starts to lean, support it with a flexible stake so the trunk will sway in the wind. Movement is necessary for building the trunk's strength. Remove the stake and wire after a year because leaving wire or string around the tree can kill it.

Do not wrap the trunk with "protective" tape. It will slow the tree's ability to adapt to the site and may provide a cozy home for insects. The tape is often held in place with thin thread at the top and bottom, which will strangle a tree just as wire will. Tree bark needs air and sunlight in

order to build a healthy, protective sheath.

It is estimated that young trees can grow twice as fast when planted correctly and will live at least twice as long as trees improperly set out. Digging a hole in dense, compacted soil and filling the hole with peat moss and other soil amendments is like creating a pot for the tree that soon becomes a coffin. The tree does fine until the roots reach the original soil, and the outward growth stops. Instead of spreading into the yard, the roots encircle the planting pit. The "pot" soon fills with roots. The crown continues to grow, but the roots do not. Once the tree becomes root-bound, its ability to maintain itself during a drought or flood is limited - leading to decline that often ends in tree death.

This information is from "The Best Way to Plant Trees," by Gary Moll and Phillip Rodbell, American Forestry Association. Dr. Diane Relf is a horticulture specialist with Virginia Cooperative Extension and is a member of the faculty of Virginia Tech.


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