ROANOKE TIMES 
                      Copyright (c) 1997, Roanoke Times

DATE: Wednesday, January 22, 1997            TAG: 9701220010
SECTION: EXTRA                    PAGE: 8    EDITION: METRO 
COLUMN: THE WINE LIST
SOURCE: BETH CRITTENDEN


FORTIFIED WINES TO WARM YOU THIS WINTER

What better way to treat your Valentine than with a warming bottle of ruby port and some rich, dark chocolate in front of a fire? Or match a vintage port with a special stogie for the cigar aficionado, in the British tradition.

Port, madeira and sherry are on the upswing in the wine market, especially during the chilly winter season. Fortified with brandy and made in styles unique to these particular wines, these are toe-warmers on the coldest of days.

The fortified wine market in Southwest Virginia has been growing since the 1995 holiday season, following national trends and higher demands for these wines. Once a staid British tradition, Americans finally are embracing port, sherry and madeira as before- and after-dinner sippers.

As a rule, ports are mostly sweet, hence their popularity after dinner with dessert - or as dessert themselves. Madeiras and sherry range from the dry predinner aperitif styles to after-dinner sweet sippers. True ports, madeiras and sherry come from Portugal and Spain and cost anywhere between $11 and $30 for a .750 ml bottle. Older vintage ports increase in cost depending on the vintage year, supply and producer.

Other wines made in this style may be called by these names and come from other countries, including the United States. If you are looking for something unique to give as Valentine's Day gifts or to make for a special dinner for your love, here are a few suggestions:

*Give a gift of ruby port and Lindt Dark Chocolate Gourmet Truffles.

*Simmer fresh, chopped vegetables and garlic in dry Madeira before tossing with hot pasta and herbs.

*Serve Astor Chocolate Liqueur Cups filled with a sweet sherry, ruby port, Malmsey Madeira or fortified raspberry wine.

*Serve tawny port paired with a wheel of brie at room temperature, topped with warm caramel sauce and toasted pecans.

*Make an elegant but easy Tawny Port Custard using vanilla instant pudding mix, milk and port. Substitute 1/2 cup tawny port for part of the cold milk when mixing up a batch of instant pudding. Follow the remaining instructions, then spoon into pretty glassware after it is set. Top with whipped cream and a dusting of nutmeg, toasted coconut or chopped toasted walnuts. (This is not for children!)

The next Roanoke Valley Wine Society meeting will focus on fortified wines with a featured tasting of several ports, a couple of Madeiras and a dry sherry. The wines, which are listed below, are highly rated in the wine press and a rare treat to be able to taste.

The tasting is 7 p.m. to 9 p.m. Thursday at Hidden Valley Country Club, Salem. The tasting fee is $12 per person and reservations should be made by calling 389-8146.

Cheers!

Winter-warming wine recommendations

Recommended wines

Wines

to try

Emilio Lustau Light Manzanilla Sherry, (Spain), about $12

Leacocks Rainwater Madeira, (Madeira), about $13

Leacocks Malmsey Madeira, (Madeira), about $17

Emilio Lustau Cream Sherry, (Spain), about $13

Yalumba Galway Pipe Port, (Australia), about $21

Dow s 1994 Vintage Porto, (Portugal), about $37

Churchill Graham 1985 Vintage Porto, (Portugal), about $48

THE WINE LIST runs once a month in the Extra section. Beth Crittenden is a local wine wholesaler and founder of the Roanoke Valley Wine Society, which usually meets for programs on the fourth Thursday of each month. For more information, call 992-3285.


LENGTH: Medium:   72 lines






















































by CNB