ROANOKE TIMES
Copyright (c) 1997, Roanoke Times
DATE: Thursday, January 30, 1997 TAG: 9701300001
SECTION: CURRENT PAGE: NRV-2 EDITION: NEW RIVER VALLEY
COLUMN: the home front
SOURCE: L. DAWN BARNES
Homeowners planning to have their residence closed up for several months should take precautions to prevent damage to their possessions from freezing temperatures. When it is possible to have someone make regular checks, do a partial closing leaving the heating, plumbing and electrical systems operating.
The thermostat for a heating system should be set at its lowest setting (usually 45 to 55 degrees), which will prevent freezing of water pipes but use minimal fuel. Leave internal doors open to promote air circulation and even temperature. A little heat in the house also maintains the humidity at a more constant level. That causes less swelling and shrinking later in wood floors, cabinet work and furniture. Thermal expansion and contraction can crack painted surfaces and hurt delicate joinery on woodwork or fine furniture.
Water heaters should be turned off and drained for long absences. After draining the water heater, attach a sign indicating that it should not be turned on again until refilled.
There are several reasons you may want to consider leaving the electrical system operating. First, timers can be set to operate lights in the house to give the impression it is occupied and reduce the chance of burglaries. Second, appliances such as freezers can continue to operate rather than be emptied. It will also be easier for someone checking your house to make a more thorough inspection if lighting is available.
The alternative to a partial closing is a full closing. In this case, the heat will be turned off, the water turned off at the main valve and the plumbing drained. In some newer houses, especially those with exposed basement walls, there must be sufficient heat in the basement to prevent the earth behind the walls from freezing; otherwise, the foundation walls may be pushed in by frost action.
If you have a well, open the valves and let the supply line drain back down into the well. Make sure your water tank and pump are also drained. If your water comes from municipal supply, see if you can have it shut off at the curb by the supplier. If that is not possible, disconnect the plumbing at the main valve, and wrap the valve and the supply line securely with insulation.
Draining the water system of a home may be best done by a plumber, but you can do it with a bit of work. Start by turning off your water supply at the main shut-off valve, which should be located just inside your house at the point where your water supply comes into the house. Next, flush all toilets and open all faucets. Homes with water pumps need special attention, since the pump system may have to be cleared of water.
Underneath every sink, tub, shower and floor drain, open and drain the traps. Your dishwasher may empty into the trap under the sink. The clothes washer is likely to have its own trap, which needs to be drained separately. Also check for low spots in horizontal pipes. If these sections do not drain properly on their own, you will have to take them apart and drain them by hand. Compressed air can be applied at a faucet to force the water out at the nearest or lowest opening.
Once you have drained everything, pour a cup of glycerin automotive antifreeze down every drain in the house. (Do this after reclosing all the traps.) Add at least a quart of antifreeze to each toilet.
If you chose to do a full closing, consider the contents of your house. Your major appliances need winterizing, too, if you are vacating the house for a long period of time. Check with manufacturers for suggested steps. Do you have canned foods or other items that will freeze? Be sure to remove items that will be damaged by freezing.
L. Dawn Barnes is a family and consumer science agent with Virginia Cooperative Extension.
LENGTH: Medium: 70 linesby CNB