ROANOKE TIMES
Copyright (c) 1997, Roanoke Times
DATE: Sunday, March 30, 1997 TAG: 9703290002
SECTION: TRAVEL PAGE: 8 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: SUZANNE MURPHY-LARRONDE SPECIAL TO THE ROANOKE TIMES
ABOUT AN hour's drive from the shaded colonial plazas of Merida, arrow-straight Route 261 makes its gentle ascent into the rolling, gray-green hill country of Mexico's southern Yucatan, and so begins the unassuming introduction to the spectacular Ruta Puuc (rhymes with duke).
A powerful and potently artistic civilization flourished here during the Mayan Late Classical period A.D. 500-900, but for unknown reasons, its inhabitants had scattered long before the Conquest of 1542. In their wake, they left a shimmering strand of crumbling cities resplendent with intricately carved temples linked through the dense scrub forest by a network of sacred white roads.
For years, the stunning, sophisticated capital city of Uxmal (pronounced oosh-MAL) was the best-known and most-visited of these Puuc complexes, but thanks to the Instituto Nacional de Antropologia e Historia, that is changing. Nearly a decade of restoration work by the organization has succeeded in focusing attention on the other archaeological gems in this unique collection, namely, Kabah, Sayil, tiny X'lapak and Labna. Now, as never before, these pre- Columbian beauties are accessible for exploration and appreciation over well- maintained roads and at modest entry fees of between $3 and $7.
Dramatic linguistic breakthroughs and ongoing investigations throughout Mesoamerica have netted archaeologists a wealth of fresh insights into the workings of the Mayan empire, but many other details await clarification, particularly in this isolated region of southern Yucatan. Just what attracted populations to settle the arid Puuc Hills in the first place and what brought about the area's abandonment are not yet fully understood.
Like the archaeologists, visitors are likely to gain their greatest understanding of this ancient civilization by way of its monumental architecture, set against the rounded karstic hills known to the Maya as "puuc." Common design elements link these five sites while distinguishing them from all other Mayan regions. Uxmal's massive Governors' Palace, from atop a three-tiered platform, epitomizes many of the Puuc's finest buildings with a wide, ornate ribbon of cut-stone mosaics etched boldly across the upper portion of its segmented facade.
Undulating serpents and geometric patterns mesh in its complex design trimmed with masks of Chaac, the hook-nosed rain deity, a dominant image throughout the region. In a trompe l'oeil twist attesting to the sophistication of these early builders, two arrowheaded-shaped porticoes (known as Mayan false arches) seem to pierce the structure, separating its outer wings from the central body.
Another architectural standout of Uxmal is the Nuns' Quadrangle, a group of four lavishly ornamented buildings poised at varying elevations around a central plaza. Their dozens of cell-like rooms reminded one early visitor of a convent, but today, archaeologists believe the complex may have been used as a school or military academy.
A stunning Mayan false arch in the South Building leads to the Ball Court. Nearby, layers of history are incorporated into the 114-foot Pyramid of the Magician, a composite of overlapping temples from at least five successive time periods. Other gems include the Great Pyramid, House of the Turtles and tantalizing Dovecoat Quadrangle, its lacy cornice barely visible through engulfing vegetation.
The neighboring complex of Kabah, second in importance among the Puuc sites, lies farther along Route 261. The focal point here is the bazaar Codz Poop or Palace of the Masks, an elevated temple bristling from top to bottom with hundreds of bulgy-eyed, elephant-trunked portraits of Chaac. Each face is painstakingly fashioned of more than two dozen cut stones and several of the larger ones double as staircases or entrances to inner chambers, making this one of the most original and visually arresting buildings of the Mayan world.
Work goes forward on a number of the 80 or more ruins scattered across this site including other temples, pyramids and palaces. Across the highway, visitors pass still more buried architectural treasure before arriving at the monumental Arch of Kabah, often compared to the triumphal arches of Roman times. It marked the beginning of a "sacbe" or sacred roadway which led directly to the Governor's Palace at Uxmal. At one time, networks of these elevated limestone roads crisscrossed the Yucatan, linking one Mayan stronghold to another like so many white ribbons.
Several miles away, the city of Sayil offers its exquisite Great Palace for admiration. The massive, sienna-hued structure incorporates 100 rooms into three tiers. Its second story is a special standout, with rows of distinctive columns filing across a facade punctuated by more than a dozen openings. Still other typical elements of Puuc design are to be found on the third floor with its serpent profiles and huge, stylized masks of the rain god, Chaac. With no natural water sources at hand, it's easy to understand why this grotesque character received so much attention. During the times when he did deign to deliver, enormous cisterns known as "chultunes" were at the ready. Several of these stone-lined receptacles can be seen from atop the Great Palace.
Few visitors take the time for tiny X'lapak, several minutes drive down the road, but this complex is worth the trip for a view of its compact, lavishly decorated palace, to date its only restored structure. Chaac receives his accustomed exposure among the columns and carved geometric latticework while numerous tree-covered mounds nearby await their rescue at the hands of archaeologists. From there, it's another short hop to Labna, last of the archaeological stops along the Ruta Puuc.
Like its other Puuc neighbors, Labna boasts an impressive and uncommonly long palace with one of the largest Chaac masks on record, but the real draw here is its Triumphal Arch. For sheer elegance and harmony of proportion, this much-admired structure is in a class by itself. Views of the unique gateway are best along the elevated, rough-hewn sacbe that links it to the palace. Archaeologists theorize that the arch once served as a passageway between two quadrangular courtyards. Of special note, are the upper reaches of its western facade with their detailed carvings of latticework and the traditional Mayan huts still found in surrounding areas.
If you plan to go
Essentials: Dress for maximum protection against the searing sun of the Yucatan. A good hat and sun screen are de rigueur, as are sturdy walking shoes. Uxmal has a modern tourist center with a restaurant and bookstore. The other sites offer few amenities, so it's a wise idea to take along plenty of bottled water.
Picking a base: Merida, where Maya meets Spanish colonial, is the perfect spot to begin your Ruta Puuc expeditions. There is a range of comfortable, moderately priced hotels and the eating is varied, original and tasty. Take advantage of your stay in the big city to visit the Regional Museum of Anthropology and History in the Canton Palace, a fabulous Beaux Arts building on upscale Paseo de Montejo.
Planning your trip: You need about two days to complete the Ruta Puuc, one for the colonial Hacienda Yaxcopoil and Uxmal, including the evening sound-and-light show, and the other for the smaller centers, the Loltun Caves and some shopping in Ticul.
LENGTH: Long : 125 lines ILLUSTRATION: PHOTO: 1. Hacienda Uxmal is among the impressive sights risingby CNBout of the dense forest along Ruta Puuc. color
2. & 3. Other attractions include ancient jewelry displays (above)
at the Museum of Anthropology and History in Merida, and pottery for
sale in Ticul (left). color