ROANOKE TIMES
Copyright (c) 1997, Roanoke Times
DATE: Sunday, April 6, 1997 TAG: 9704040096
SECTION: TRAVEL PAGE: 8 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: SHERRI A. WALKER/THE ROANOKE TIMES
MARK TWAIN deemed it "the fairest sight the earth affords" as he overlooked a mountain valley on his way to Carson City, Nev., in 1862.
What Twain didn't know was that he was looking at the second-largest Alpine lake in North America - officially named Lake Tahoe in 1945. Until then, it had no official name, known simply as "Mountain Lake" or "Lake Bigler" on maps of the region.
Although much has changed in the region during the last century, one thing remains constant: its beauty.
At more than 6,500 feet elevation, Lake Tahoe lies in a natural basin framed by the Sierra Nevada Mountain range between Sacramento, Calif., and Carson City, Nev.
The lake is 12 miles wide and 22 miles long, with two-thirds of it in California and the remainder in Nevada. U.S. 50 runs from Sacramento east through the lake's South Shore, connecting to U.S. 395 outside Carson City, Nev.
An outdoor paradise|
Lake Tahoe is often called "the lake of the sky" because its water color mirrors the sky. Its hues can change from aquamarine to sapphire to silver quickly, depending on the weather.
And despite the color, the water is so clear that visibility reaches down to about 100 feet. The true depth of Lake Tahoe is unknown, but the deepest point recorded is 1,600 feet.
Deep waters can breed big fish, and Tahoe has some whoppers. A trout fisher's haven, the lake boasts the same breeds that fill the region's Alpine streams: rainbows, browns, brooks and goldens. The monster trout, Mackinaw (mountain trout), reside in deeper lake waters and often demand the expertise of a fishing guide and special equipment. Anglers may also revel in the glory of capturing the elusive Kokanee Salmon in the lake or surrounding streams.
While the lake's depth keeps the water chilly all year, boating, skiing and parasailing are among popular sports from late spring through summer. Marinas around the lake rent boats, personal watercraft, skis and wetsuits while also providing parasailing services.
For those who'd rather keep dry, Zephyr Cove Resort, on U.S. 50 in Zephyr Cove, Nev., operates the M.S. Dixie II, a replica of a 19th-century paddlewheeler.
Cruises run throughout the day, varying in length according to destination. The boat has a snack bar and cocktail lounge on the main deck, an open upper deck and a glass bottom on the lower deck. Sunset cruises offer dinner and dancing to live bands.
For landlubbers, camping sites, hiking and mountain biking trails abound in the Tahoe Basin.
Under the auspices of the U.S. Forest Service, the Toiyabe and El Dorado national forests offer everything from wildflowers and wildlife to Alpine lakes and waterfalls to hiking and mountain climbing.
Hiking and camping in the backcountry are encouraged; simply stop by a ranger station for permits and wilderness rules. Day permits are available at any entrance into backcountry areas. Fire laws are very strict in the forests, especially in the summer when fire danger is high.
Around the lake|
One of the most beautiful drives in the country is the 72-mile loop around Lake Tahoe.
Starting from the South Shore in California, take U.S. 50 west and follow the signs toward California 89, which winds around the lake's West Shore.
On this route, look for signs to Fallen Leaf Lake, a wondrous Alpine beauty. Take the narrow road that winds past a campground and continues a couple of miles to the lake. The general store is a good place to park and walk to the small lake's shoreline.
Continue on the same road past Fallen Leaf Lake to Glen Alpine Falls, a beautiful waterfall in its full glory during late spring and early summer. Turn around in the parking lot at the entrance to Desolation Wilderness, the backcountry known as "little Yosemite."
Back on U.S. 50, stop by Richardson's Resort, a historic landmark previously known as Camp Richardson. The lodge and grounds are meticulously maintained, as are the guest cabins and beach. The Beacon Restaurant at the marina is an outstanding spot to relax on the deck, listen to live music and take in the spectacular scenery.
Next is California 89 and the fabulous Emerald Bay, renowned for its blue-green waters, Eagle Falls and Vikingsholm castle.
A one-mile trail leads down to Vikingsholm, a Norwegian mansion open for daily tours during the summer. There are ample parking spaces around the bay, restrooms and many hiking trails. Emerald Bay is one of the most visited and photographed spots at Lake Tahoe.
Continuing on California 89 leads to the junction with California 28 at Tahoe City. Take California 28 to continue the journey around the lake. Lovely homes, gorgeous views of the lake and quaint towns such as Tahoe Vista and King's Beach mark this portion of the trip.
At the California/Nevada border, smaller hotels and casinos dot the landscape on the Nevada side. The North Shore has mellowed since the days when Frank Sinatra owned the Cal-Neva Lodge.
It was a real hot spot, accommodating such celebrities as Marilyn Monroe and Lucille Ball as Dean Martin, Red Skelton and Lena Horne played the showroom.
The final destination on the North Shore is Incline Village, home to Sierra Nevada College, art establishments, shops and the Hyatt Lake Tahoe.
The rest of Nevada 28 is mostly scenic and passes the Ponderosa Ranch, which has daily tours of the set for Bonanza. At the junction of U.S. 50, head west again to Stateline, Nev.
Entertainment/nightlife|
South Shore boasts entertainment galore at Stateline, where gambling is the name of the game. Five casinos lure visitors to
the area - Caesar's Tahoe, Harrah's Tahoe, Harveys Resort Hotel and Casino, The Horizon Resort, and Lakeside Inn and Casino. The casinos offer varying stakes in traditional gaming ranging from cards and dice to video games and sports betting.
Big-name entertainers grace showrooms, cabarets feature talented bands and variety shows tout anything from magic to musicals. The action is nonstop - casinos and lounges are open 24 hours a day. Highlights of upcoming events include:
Caesar's Tahoe
Tyson vs. Holyfield (May 3)
Brooks & Dunn (May 23-25)
Gladys Knight (June 13-14)
George Carlin (July 5-6)
David Copperfield (July 16-22)
Harrah's Tahoe
Spellbound (May 5-June 29)
Blood, Sweat & Tears (May 23-25)
Smothers Brothers (June 13-15)
Roomful of Blues/Elvin Bishop (June 20-22)
Phyllis Diller (July 18-20)
Harveys Resort
Dick Clark's American Bandstand (Indefinite)
The Horizon Resort
Anthony Clark (May 24-25)
Rita Rudner (July 18-19)
Getting there
Three international airports provide access to Lake Tahoe, but no commercial carriers fly into the airport at the lake. Reno/Tahoe International is 60 miles north of Lake Tahoe, Sacramento International is 90 miles west and San Francisco International is 325 miles west.
LENGTH: Long : 148 lines ILLUSTRATION: PHOTO: SHERRI A. WINKLER. 1. The Sierras rise to more thanby CNB10,000 feet above sea level along U.S. 395 in California and Nevada.
2. Glen Alpine Falls (above) lie just past Fallen Leaf Lake on the
way to Desolation Wilderness. The falls are accessible by car, bike
or on foot. 3. Emerald Bay (right), on the West Shore, is one of the
most photographed spots. A parking area off California 89 above the
bay provides access to its shoreline. 4. Lake Tahoe takes on a
variety of colors as it mirrors the sky, from blues and greens
(above) to orange and silver (below).